Tiger Balm Tales Vol. 22
Best and the Worst of the Annapurna Circuit
Near the end of hiking the circuit, my father and I reminisced on some of our best and worst experiences over the past 21 days. We compiled a list of the best / worst of our Annapurna Circuit experience. Remember…this is only our opinion!
| My Dad | Me | |
| Best Food | Onion Tomato Lasagna in Marpha (so good he had it for lunch and dinner!) | Dharapani’s Mushroom noodle soup and Momos |
| Best Guest House | It was unanimous…our Gunsang guest house had the best hospitality there was and a great view that you would never tire of. Not to mention our ensuite toilet! | |
| Worst Guest House | Also unanimous – the first guesthouse we stayed in with the bucket shower in the smelly outhouse was the worst. The people were super nice, but the rooms left something to be desired. Since we experienced the ‘worst’ on the first night – we had nowhere to go be up from there! | |
| Best Village | Marpha – the apple capital! | agree with Marpha for its clean and colorful décor, but the little village of Shikha came in a close 2nd! |
| Worst Village | Unanimous again…Ghorepani. Maybe this was due to the fact that we had to work so hard to get up there, and then realized it was just an over-touristed village with no character…and crappy cinnamon rolls! | |
| Most surprising thing about Nepal | the people were so friendly, courteous, and welcoming. | the country gets better on the 2nd trip…I never thought it was possible to get any better! |
| One thing you wish you would’ve brought with you | More Tiger Balm! | Clothes pins |
| The one thing you should’ve left at home. | Waterproof pants and a pocket knife | Bug Spray |
| Most difficult thing to adapt to | The altitude of course! | Wearing the same clothes for 5 days+ in a row. |
| Scariest Moment | Running from the rock slide and navigating the snow on the other side of the pass. | The narrow trails with big drop-offs, the bus ride to Tatopani, and of course the mouse in my bed! |
| Lasting Memory | the experience in Puma was on top of his list, followed by the Thorung La Pass | My return to the village of Puma was also special – but it was a lasting memory because I was able to bring my dad with me and introduce him to Puma this time. |
| Why should people come to Nepal? | A lot of people shouldn’t; this type of ‘roughing it’ isn’t for everyone. However, for the people that enjoy a simpler way of travel, you should come to see how hard people work to make a little living. How appreciative they are about little things we take for granted. | You should come to see the mountains, and meet some of the nicest people living in the hardest environments. |
Also in alignment with the ‘Best of’ theme – I’ve also put together a photography album – The Best of Annapurna Circuit Photography – check out my Global Photography Website!
Have you hiked the Annapurna Circuit? Share some of your best/worst experiences in the comments!
By kimfromkansas April 20, 2010 - 2:13 pm
Just finished reading this book that I checked out at the library: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XU8E5K/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0609809547&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1Z17AEFS1REZG5T3BQP9 It was great! I thought of you and your blog while reading it. Have you read it yet?
By Leigh April 21, 2010 - 12:03 am
I hiked around Manaslu many years ago – camping instead of guesthouses. I think the worst thing was the food – cabbage pizza, a beautiful but inedible cake made with rancid butter and they even messed up the oatmeal. The second worst thing was lieing in a sleeping bag knowing you have to get up to pee – about 3X/night because you’re trying to stay hydrated at altitude.
But the people were absolutely lovely and the scenery was some of the best ever.I’d go back in a heartbeat.
By admin April 21, 2010 - 5:45 pm
Oh – what memories! Going thru the ‘do I pee?’ or ‘can I hold it’ debate in bed is always an ordeal! Especially when it’s freezing outside and that means you have to put on your hiking boots, warm clothes, and headlamp just to go to the bathroom! I wish there was some way you could pay to have an ‘iron bladder’ in those situations!
By Andrew Hedges April 21, 2010 - 2:24 am
I hiked the Annapurna Sanctuary in 2000. It was an incredible experience. I hope to get back to Nepal at some point. As you say, the people are amazingly gracious and the landscape unparalleled.
By admin April 21, 2010 - 5:38 pm
Wow – I bet it’s changed a bit since 2000! It really is an incredible hike – I”m so happy I did it!
By Ahi April 21, 2010 - 3:00 am
This is very cool. I made a list like this after finishing and it’s quite similar. Funny.
I had the best food in Marpha too, and found the worst cinnamon rolls in Tatopani. But my favorite village was Ghyaru; so medieval and amazing views of Annapurna II.
By admin April 21, 2010 - 5:41 pm
How funny that we had some of the same things. I just loved Marpha – such a different town from the rest of the circuit. I never went to Ghyaru – on what side of the pass was it located? We skipped a few towns after the pass as we were behind on our schedule and had to jeep for a couple of days – maybe we missed it then!
By Ahi April 22, 2010 - 1:36 am
Ghyaru is on the upper route out of Pisang. When I went through Marpha, the trees were just about to bud, but the trees were still dead. I imagine it would be so much better when they were all blooming.
By YaelfromIsrael April 24, 2010 - 8:50 am
Hey!
I just finished reading this entire amazing blog and I can barely sit still with enthusiasm… I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit this September and it looks soooo marvelous!
Your pictures are wonderful. May I ask which camera you use?
By admin April 24, 2010 - 9:44 am
Glad you liked the Tiger Balm Tales- it was a wonderful trek and I guarantee you’ll have a great time! I use a Canon 40D and carry 3 different lenses with me – wide, telephoto, and a good every day lense – 20 to 60 mm. I don’t use a tripod as that would be too much to carry along with all of my other equipment.
If you have any questions as you are planning your trip, let me know – I’m more than happy to help!
By Heather on her travels April 24, 2010 - 4:10 pm
It sounds like you agreed on most of your best and worst – I would have thought that another best would be sharing the experience together – fun times with your loved ones are the things that stay with you.
By Jaime April 25, 2010 - 3:50 am
Great list! My husband and I hiked a half circuit & Annapurna sanctuary trek in December. I couldn’t agree with you more about the Ghorepani disappointment. The legs were burning from that darn climb and for what? A cold guesthouse and expensive so-so food?
We spent three months in Nepal and are still sad we left. It’s such a special place!
Great job on your trek!
By Barbara at Hole in the Donut Travels April 26, 2010 - 4:08 am
I’m still debating whether or not I can actually do this, especially since I blew out my knee in Mexico. It’s all healed, but the potential for re-injuring it, and my tentative relationship with altitude had me wondering. But after I read this latest post it renewed my determination!
By Mark H April 26, 2010 - 5:30 pm
I walked a similar trying trek around the Everest region some years ago including a pass called Teschi Lapcha. Our group camped too but unlike som eof the comments, one of our highlights was the stunning food that the cook could provide under somewhat limited conditions – a fascinating mix of Nepali (dhal baht) and western food including cakes whenever a birthday occurred. I’ve greatly enjoyed your magnificent writing through this inspring series.
By Karen April 26, 2010 - 8:34 pm
Thank you for such a wonderful insight to the Annapurna Circuit. I am planning to go this September.
By Charis January 19, 2011 - 3:50 am
Sherry, thanks so much for writing this blog! It includes lot of great information, good stories, and wonderful, wonderful photos! My best friend and leave Seattle for Kathmandu in late Feb this year to do the Circuit. I’ve been planning for weeks, and blog such as yours are really helpful and motivating.
Thanks again.
Quick question: is it easy to get boiled water in most eating establishments and tea houses? I’m used to backpacking and not bringing a stove is weird for me!
By Sherry January 19, 2011 - 4:27 am
How exciting – you will have a wonderful time!! I miss Nepal very much!
As for boiled water…don’t worry about it at all – the tea houses will boil water for you all the time. They understand tourists well along the route – and actually everywhere in Nepal that I’ve been. No stove necessary at all!
Good luck!
By Charis January 21, 2011 - 1:17 am
Thanks, Sherry, that’s helpful to know.
By Jim December 5, 2011 - 7:09 pm
Enjoying reading your travelog. Worst lodge we stayed in was in Besishar, also at the start, where ants had overrun our room due to food scraps left behind. But we ended up in the owners’ quarters – Nepali hospitality! I’m sure the road is a plus for the Nepalis, but glad to have done this circuit in 2004 before the road. Your comment about making your own path down through the snow from Thorung La was spot on my experience.
By annapurna circuit February 29, 2012 - 6:18 am
Seems like I can’t thank you enough for posting all this information about Annapurna Circuit. A group of my friends are heading that way next week and I’m sure they would love to have this information. Thanks!
By Sherry February 29, 2012 - 1:17 pm
Great – I hope it helps! If my dad and I can make it – I’m sure your friends can! You can download the Tiger Balm tales ebook and access all of the info offline too. Good luck!
By Alex Shur February 7, 2018 - 10:24 pm
I read this and your other posts before doing the Annapurna Circuit myself and I really appreciate your perspective/information. So many people ask me about my biggest takeaway from the trek and, of course I love the beauty of the mountains, but my answer is always the love that Nepalis offer others. As somebody who loves nature more than anything else, I honestly think that my best moments of the trek were talking to villagers and seeing how they live.
By Sherry February 8, 2018 - 4:23 pm
Alex – congrats for finishing the trek. Just hearing how much you loved it makes me want to go back! Glad you were able to connect with the culture!
By Stephen November 8, 2018 - 12:19 pm
I’ve bought the air tix to Nepal. Wanna do EBC but decided against it cos of fear of Lukla airport. Then I thought hey, I can do AC, until I saw your video. Now I dunno what else I can do in Nepal without flying and taking buses. Sigh.
By Sherry November 10, 2018 - 2:16 pm
There are plenty of hikes to do in Nepal – and the buses aren’t bad. I would say to go and do the AC or part of it – it’s a lovely hike!
By Shelly December 21, 2022 - 11:06 am
My first trip to Nepal was in 1992. I was terribly unprepared to hike (in my Vans tennis shoes) and after 3 days turned around and vowed to someday return to this exquisite country. Next year will be my 6th trip. The last time, 11 years ago, I took my 2 daughters, Acacia and Annapurna, with me. I am planning to go back next December and stumbled across your blog while doing research. What a treat! I sat down and read every single word and relived the pain and glory of the Annapurna Circuit. Thank you for sharing your trip and memories, it truly was a joy to read. And your photos are breathtaking. I enjoyed reading about your return visit to Puma and will look to see if you wrote about your experiences while you lived there, as well as reading about your other adventures. I appreciate you sharing your passion. Namaste.
By Sherry January 13, 2023 - 10:45 am
Thanks for reading my story! I miss Nepal and hope to get back there again soon!