Start from the Beginning – Motorbike Diaries Vol. 1
Mirror Mirror on the motorbike, what is your purpose; are you just there for decoration? Unfortunately after driving a motorbike in HCMC for the last 3 months, I feel as if I’m the only person here who uses my motorbike mirrors for their intended purpose; to see things behind you and in your blind spot. Yes, that’s right; the poor motorbike mirror is seldom used. Why you ask? I don’t know if I have an answer for that. It goes on my list of “Unexplained Oddities in Vietnam” with things like:
Why is there always a shower curtain rod but no shower curtain in bathrooms in Vietnam?
Why do parents put mosquito nets on children’s heads in place of a helmet?
Why does everyone use short little chairs and tables that look like they are for kids?
Why are there tons of brothels, but I never see anyone going in them?
Back to mirrors, I suppose it has something to do with the fact that the locals driving responsibility is determined by angles. Imagine you are on a motorbike looking straight in front of you. There are other motorbikes all around you weaving in and out…yes…be scared, be very scared. However for the locals there is no reason to ever be scared because you are technically responsible for about 45degrees to either side of you…46 degrees…who cares…not your responsibility.
That big truck bearing down behind you – don’t worry. If you want to move to the right of the road while you on currently on the left, don’t worry, just take a steady 45 degree angle and the motorbike seas will part as if you are Moses and you will get to the right side. Actually, I once heard someone describe driving in Vietnam akin to being in a school of fish. I honestly think that’s quite accurate. Fish don’t turn their head and look behind them, they just move in this weird flowing unison. That’s how traffic here works – we are all fish.
After driving in the US for 16 years, it’s ingrained in me to be responsible for more than 45 degrees…hence – why I use mirrors. I like knowing what’s behind me, call me old fashioned or a stupid foreigner; I don’t want to give up my mirrors! I must admit though, when I’m in heavy traffic – I sometimes talk to myself and tell myself “I’m a fish, just swimming here with my friends, we all move as one. I’m a fish, I’m a fish.” I know it’s strange, but it does seem to help keep me calm in times where any normal westerner would be quite tense and nervous!
Most of the people that I see driving don’t have mirrors, or maybe they only have one mirror that looks like it’s pointed at the sky. Then there are the drivers that actually have mirrors, but they choose to point them towards each other so they don’t get in the way of their driving; the mirrors seem to be considered a nuisance most of the time.
The part that I don’t get is that there are many, many vendors along the side of the road selling motorbike mirrors. Simply stop, pay a couple of bucks and screw in your new mirror…presto. But I don’t really understand the supply and demand here, who’s buying them?!
Regardless, every day when I get on my bike, I turn the key, press the break, hit the automatic start button, give it throttle, and check the mirrors and put them in position. This is the point where my neighbors laugh at me….up until then it actually appeared as if I knew what I was doing! With a big sigh…I hit the roads again, always keeping an eye on what’s behind me, but trying to tell myself to ‘forget it’ and just swim with the fishes!
Get your own Vietnam Motorbike License and get out on the streets!
Like what you read? Then keep reading!
By Shawn June 11, 2009 - 9:40 am
I demand the answers to these other questions you mentioned! 🙂
Why is there always a shower curtain rod but no shower curtain in bathrooms in Vietnam?
Why do parents put mosquito nets on children’s heads in place of a helmet?
Why does everyone use short little chairs and tables that look like they are for kids?
Why are there tons of brothels, but I never see anyone going in them?
By admin June 11, 2009 - 9:56 am
Give me a break – I just figured out the mirrors! The rest of the questions are still ‘open’! Plus – I’m too intimidated to go up and ask the ladies at the brothels “Do you ever have any customers?”
By Iain June 11, 2009 - 10:03 am
The mirrors are there to check your hair when you remove your helmet when you think you won’t be caught riding without it. Also for hanging your shopping bags on. Simple really….
By admin June 11, 2009 - 10:24 am
@Iain – I try to not take off my helmet as my hair is a lost cause here – and I certainly don’t want to look at it! However, I did forget about the shopping bags! Or better yet – you can hang your little drink bags off the mirrors!
Cheers!
By Lynn June 12, 2009 - 3:45 pm
Sherry, your little mantra reminds me of the one I used in Hong Kong “driver in the middle, driver in the middle”, to keep me from ending up on the wrong side of the road. You know what’s sad though? Now that I’m back in the US, I STILL have to mutter that to myself occasionally when turning, now so that I don’t end up on the left instead of the right hand side! Sad…I think I’m ruined for life….
By Dave and Deb June 13, 2009 - 1:17 pm
Great funny post. I loved your questions you asked. There are a lot of oddities in Vietnam. We always wondered why everyone squats on tiny plastic stools and yes, why is there never a shower curtain in the bathtub? I love your I am a fish comment. Isn’t that the truth, traffic does move like a school of fish. Crammed together and floating in the tide. Great article.
By Marc June 13, 2009 - 8:59 pm
this is great! We’ve been too chicken to try riding motorbikes here, but we do enjoy crossing the streets. That’s kinda like swimming through a school of fish: even though there are no gaps, they somehow don’t hit us.
Too bad we didn’t find your site until we left Saigon – would’ve loved to meet you! Oh well, next time…
By Amy @ The Q Family June 15, 2009 - 6:52 pm
Good observation! I’m looking forward to reading the future posts that will answer the rest of the questions. 🙂
By admin June 16, 2009 - 11:53 pm
@Marc – ha…yes – crossing the street is a whole other experience here! It’s as if you are the snorkeler and the school of fish surround you, but somehow avoid running into you. At least most of the time!
By David June 27, 2012 - 1:27 am
Hi,
I’ve been riding in and outside HCM for 2.5 weeks now and must say that after doing 15k km from Chiang Mai-Singapore-Cambo-Laos this is a totally different experience in VN.
Firstly, the proximity of fellow riders in crowded cities. We keep touching each other many times. Though, despite traffic looking like a total chaos there are some rules, not necessarily correct or logical, to follow/obey or else you put yourself in real danger.
When turning left at junctions for example I notice they tend to cut through the opposite traffic lane forcing oncoming vehicles to go around from the other, your right, side. In the west you get as close as possible to the centre of the road patiently waiting for a “safe window” with no vehicles to do the turn. There were times when I hesitated with a turn causing thereby putting myself in real danger. I’m sure you’ve had this at least once in your life – it’s like two people bumping into each other and both trying to go over the same way but in this case it was at high speed which could result in serious injuries or death. Also, when turning right you have to look at oncoming vehicles coming from your right side! I usually keep away from curbs leaving enough space for at least one motorbike to squeeze in.
Direction indicators – rarely used especially in big cities. I still don’t know if I should be using them or they are only causing unnecessary confusion.
Mirrors – bought my motorbike with one mirror that was swapped to the other side so it doesn’t stick out too much. I got another one for 50k Dong at Honda (local workshop asked 200k for the same) to have both but now belive I understand why they don’t bother with the at all – two main reasons:
1) other riders keep touching mirrors & dragging my handle bar all the time in heavy traffic casing unexpected forced quick turns which are dangerous as tere is little or no time for other riders to react accordingly. I try to be as strimlined / smooth as possible when changing my directions.
2) as said above about 45 degree angle responsibility, your front is what you should pay attention to at all times since majority of dangers come from there. I tend to loose sight of my front for a second or two when glimpsing at my mirrors. This 1-2 seconds can be a life saviour so it’s a bad habit here & still have to overcome it / use my ears instead.
Helmets – if you are seriously thinking about riding in VN bring your own helmet. What they use/sell here is not even good for kids playing Star Wars’ Luck & Vader fights! They only good for keeping your hairstyle from the blowing wind and to get by police checks. I also brought my own summer riding padded jacket and separate knee pads too (no time for recovery during my trip). Good stuff can be really expensive here.
Question – does anyone know any decent motorbike accessories eg. top boxes / side racks for Honda in particular?