The Motorbike Diaries: Getting Legal and Small Victories on Two Wheels
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My Vietnamese motorbike license has finally arrived, which means one thing: bribery actually works. See, you learn something new every day in Vietnam.
Of course, the whole thing is in Vietnamese, and the only word I recognize is my name. For all I know, the rest of it reads:
“Sucker! This foreigner thinks this is a real license. Take her motorbike and demand more money.”
Note to self: have someone translate the license.
Table of Contents
Police Cracking Down on Foreigners
The timing couldn’t be better. Rumor has it that the police are starting to “crack down” on foreign drivers in Ho Chi Minh City. That’s slightly disturbing, considering I think foreigners are among the safest drivers here. Most of the time, I’m the lone person actually waiting at a red light, while the locals blast past me, horns blaring, without even pretending to slow down.
But years of American conditioning mean I can’t quite bring myself to blatantly ignore traffic lights… yet.
What I’ve Learned Riding a Motorbike in Vietnam
I’ve only been riding my rented motorbike in Ho Chi Minh City for a month – but I’ve been learning a lot! I’m finally hitting my stride on this motorbike. No, I’m not exactly Evel Knievel, but I’ve had some small victories worth celebrating. These might sound trivial, but trust me — they are huge accomplishments when you’re a rookie foreigner learning to ride a motorbike in Vietnam.
Getting Into the Motorbike Groove
Parking in my apartment
I can now get my motorbike in and out of my apartment solo, without begging my neighbors for help. This is no small feat, given the weight of the bike and the narrow alley I call home.
Not the slowest on the road anymore
I’ve learned that speeding up is actually safer than puttering along like a grandma. Aggressive driving here isn’t rude — it’s survival.
Riding a motorbike in the rain…and traffic
Okay, it wasn’t a monsoon, but I did manage to pull over, whip out my stylish purple rain poncho, and rejoin the poncho parade of Saigon.
Conquering curbs and parking
I can now ride up onto the sidewalk under control without accidentally launching myself into a storefront window. Progress!
Mastering the motorbike horn
The horn is your lifeline in Vietnam. Mine now says everything from:
“Hey, I’m merging, please don’t crush me.”
“Howdy, I’m in your blind spot.”
To the occasional: “HEY! Get out of my f’ing way!”
The Vietnamese right turn
Forget signaling, slowing down, or checking for traffic. Here, you just turn and assume the world will part around you. Strangely, it works.
Riding in rush hour – something I normally try to avoid
I’ve attempted night rush hour — through traffic circles, buses, fumes, and chaos. It’s terrifying. You basically walk your bike forward in baby steps while trying not to asphyxiate. But hey, I survived.
What still needs work
Driving a Passenger on my Bike
I actually practiced this last weekend. I had a friend who was crazy enough to let me try this. Her thought was that I would be safer to ride with than the locals…I’m not too sure about that, but I was honored that she thought so! We went to a secluded district and practiced. It was pretty different as the balance on the bike was drastically different to get used to, and I found that it took longer to stop the bike (my college physics still comes in handy once in a while)! Toting around passengers will definitely need some more practice before I’m ready to do it in the heart of the city!
Left Turns are Still a Challenge to Me
Granted, I’m improving, but I still have a ways to go. Left turns are easy if you have a posse of motorbikes to turn left with. Then I nicely tuck into the posse as if I belong there and go with them, letting them pull out first and stopping the traffic. Yes, I’m using them…but you would too in this situation.
When you don’t have a posse, then it gets infinitely more complex. That requires me to go out alone and try to inch across oncoming traffic. There are no ‘turn signals’ (nor are there turn lanes) here that keep the traffic stopped while a group of people turn left. Nope, you are on your own…you turn left like you cross the street, slowly, slowly. Inch out, and watch the oncoming traffic, inch out some more, inch out some more so that now you are in the middle and the traffic is now going around both sides of you as if you were Moses trying to part the Red Sea and it’s closing in behind you. Keep inching, and finally, someone will give you a break and go around you, and you can zip across.
Navigating and Driving at the Same Time
Trying to read street signs and drive is next to impossible for me. That means that my motorbike riding is still somewhat limited to the places I know how to get to. Trying to find a new place is incredibly stressful. I still don’t know what half of the signs say, and there’s not a shoulder to pull over on and get your map out. (remember – this is 2008 and the smartphone was just coming out… no Google Maps yet!)
Baby Steps, Big Wins
Sure, I still end every ride a sweaty, exhausted mess, but little by little, I’m feeling less like an imposter and more like I actually belong in this swirling sea of motorbikes. My license might be questionable, but my confidence is definitely growing.
Now, if only someone could tell me if my license really says “approved” — or “sucker.”
Read all of the Motorbike Diaries articles
Sherry I am SO Proud of you! I cannot imagine driving a motorbike in Vietnam – crossing the street was terrifying in itself!
I was at a nail salon last week. I always tell the manicurist (invariably Vietnamese) that I’ve been to Vietnam. After they get over their disapointment that I’ve “only” been to Hanoi and not Saigon they are happy to meet a Westerner that knows a little about their country. I told her about you and that you were learning to ride a motorbike. She was VERY impressed. She was like me; it was enough just to cross the street!
–Lynn
This sounds a little different than going around on our Koerner Rd. driveway like you use to do when you were first learning the bike, maybe about 4 or 5 years old. All of that practice must have got you ready for this motorbikeing. Good luck and keep it upright!!
Dad
the main reason I even moved here is the motorbike driving, I just find it so invigorating, it makes every day seem fresh and makes me feel alive, I just bought my first bike, the Honda Click 2008, it was expensive, but omg, it is so amazing, I just love riding, but I am 26 year old boy, so I tend to drive way too fast and reckless :~)
my advice is always just take it like a school of fish, never make any abrupt moves and you’ll always be fine, and just trust that you can always make the turn, people don’t want to hit you, they’ll stop, I have had to make tough left hand turns with cement trucks coming from one side and cars from the other, but as long as you flow, just trust, it will always work out, seriously, the traffic just flows so great here, everyone just has no road rage, and like you said, just pay attention to your front and you’re fine
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I’m so proud of you, Sherry! Next stop – driving the wrong way on your street to avoid having to go around the block!
How long did it take to get a license? I’m in Saigon for the summer but not sure it’s worth the hassle. I’m bummed. Never before when I was here was the topic of a license even discussed.
It took about 4 to 5 weeks – and it was all ‘under the table’. If you don’t get a license – just be prepared that they may take your motorbike and impound it for a month – or you may be ‘forced’ to pay a bribe…it’s all a gamble!
Yes thats true. Its all about bribes here. I learned that on my first trip here. Anything to do with the government or police is all about giving them some money. You try to do that back home in america and they will arrest you on the spot. Different world here with different rules. You are a brave person Sherry. Out there driving in that madness. I think I will probably cause an accident because I like to stop at red lights, and signal before I turn, and stop and check before I just pull out onto the street. But not here boy. That can get you killed. Hang in there.
Hi, I am new to VN & am very keen to get a proper licence & be on the road ASAP. I’m kind of clueless where to start …suggestion?
hi,I like your blog, it says everything i want to say about riding a scooter in hcmc, but more eloquently than I can put it.
It’s crazy (compared to what we know) but it works, somehow it just works well. The only negative thing I think is the stench of 2 stroke fuel and the headache it gives you if yo spend too long in the traffic!
I have gone through the whole getting a licence thing alone, with only google translate pre written questions to get me by, taken 3 days and many taxis and photocopying and visits to “departments” but I finally have a test booked and will get my licence shortly after that assuming i pass!
I heard plenty stories about bribes and impounded bikes, I do use my scooter low key, but waiting till I am ligit to use everywhere, then I will enjoy being pulled over and producoing all the right docs which they wont expect!
good luck, if ur still in hcmc, feel free to give me a shout, I just arrived, planning 2 yrs here, just about to start vietnamese lessons, need few more people, its Ian – [email protected]
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am vacationing here in Bien Hoa and today was my second time riding a bike. My wrists still hurt I guess from holding the handlebars the wrong way. I think I will keep to small streets this time around. Still too scared to go out onto the major roads. I agree about the curb thing… it’s very easy to throttle too much and end up in somebody’s shop.
Hi if your new to Vietnam and need some advice or help with anything please email me, I know what its like to be new in a foriegn country with laws that are so unpredictable!
I live in Ho Chi Minh city. 🙂
you can email me at [email protected]
Leo
Thanks Leo! I could have used you a year ago!!! I actually lived there from 2008 to end 2009. I can imagine how much it has changed in a year since I left! I actually miss my motorbike quite a bit….and of course the food!
Some updates:
1. Vietnam now issues plastic driving license that is available in Vietnamese and English. The one at the top of this article was the old paper license.
2. The government is working on a new law that stop businesses from hiring bikes to foreigners who don’t have Vietnamese motorbike driving license. The point is how to facilitate the process of coverting foreigner licenses into temporary Vietnamese licenses is still going on. Currently, it’s almost impossible to get a Vietnamese driving license with a tourist visa. I guess there will be no action until next year. Until then.
Thanks for the updates – it was 5 years ago that I was there – so I’m sure things have changed. However my license wasn’t paper – it was at least laminated in plastic. I still have it as a souvenir! It will be interesting to see how things transpire as renting a motorbike in VN is one of the great tourist things to do.