The Final Motorbike Diaries: Living the Vietnam Motorbike Life
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I’m not sure how it happened, but somewhere along the way, I became one of them. I wear a jacket (boiling inside), a mask, and a poncho—I’m officially a Vietnamese motorbike driver. I’ve grown accustomed to squeezing into tiny spaces and navigating them like it’s second nature. I can coast slowly while keeping perfect balance, drive through flooded streets with my feet up on the seat to stay dry, and dodge slow pedestrians with precision.
I can maneuver into the narrowest parking spots tucked into alleys, honk to announce my presence, and increasingly rely on my horn more than my mirrors. Seriously—how did this happen? I still vividly remember the first time I took the bike out of the living room, terrified to plunge into this chaotic Saigon motorbike culture.
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Resistance is Futile: Learning the Rules of the Road
Over time, my brain has adapted. I no longer instinctively look left before turning right—I’ve learned that in Vietnam, you don’t wait for traffic gaps; you create them.
Six months later, I’ve achieved something I thought was impossible: I can zone out while riding. I notice new restaurants, read street signs, and even reflect on life while weaving through traffic. The constant honking no longer triggers panic; I’ve learned to let it roll off my back.
The extremes of motorbike life no longer shock me—four people on one bike, a refrigerator balanced precariously on the back, a dog riding shotgun, or even a boy standing on the seat behind his parents. Though I did pause for admiration at a boy sleeping between his parents in a downpour. I was jealous of his ability to rest in such an impossible environment.
Assimilation: The Day of Two Flat Tires
Last week, my immersion reached a new level. I ran over broken glass and ended up with two flat tires. I pushed my bike to a corner, spotted the Vietnamese symbol for a tire fixer, and within ten minutes and 75 cents, I was back on the road.
Even now, I retain a few personal limits: I won’t drive on sidewalks, go the wrong way down a one-way street, or haul a refrigerator, TV, or computer. But I’ve pushed myself in other ways—I’ve carried a 30-pound backpack while coasting through flooded streets, praying I wouldn’t tip over. And I refuse to ride in flip-flops—I’ve seen far too many lost footwear casualties littering the streets.
Conquering My Fears in Vietnam
What surprises me most is how much I’ll miss my motorbike when I leave Vietnam. It terrified me, yet it became the thing I loved most. Riding through Saigon was one of my personal goals, and despite five months of fear and two weeks of practice inside the apartment before taking it outside, I finally conquered it.
The motorbike has become more than a mode of transportation—it’s my bridge into the rhythm, chaos, and pulse of Saigon. My fear, my frustration, my exhilaration—it all rides along with me. And through that journey, I’ve learned patience, balance, and a new kind of courage that only comes from facing chaos head-on.
Video of me Motorbiking in Vietnam!
Check out the video of me taking off on my bike after my flat tire was fixed – notice how I don’t even hesitate to cross in front of people at a stop light and turn right… No biggie. A small victory, but a big one for this Vietnam motorbike adventure.
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Saigon’s traffic scene is crazy! You deserve a round of applause for doing it like the locals.
Finally, I saw your motorbike. What a sporty one! ^^
You look so professional rider when you’re on Nouvo Yamaha like that. keke
Miss you.
Look at you go! I love how you just drove off in front of everyone stopped there at the intersection without even a glance in their direction. You really have become a true motorcycle rider in Vietnam. Love it!
Is riding with that backpack your equivalent of the guy with the fridge? I’m amazed you’ll risk it in shorts – I’d shudder at the thought of you coming off the bike with bare legs>
Excellent progression on cycling. You-tube, and others, is blocked here in Turkey, so I am not able to see the video, but I will catch it in Bulgaria.
@heather – I normally NEVER wear shorts – that was a really unusual day! The backpack certainly felt about as heavy as a fridge that day!
Has anyone ever told you what a remarkable woman you are?
You know how I feel about motorbike and cycles – looks like you’ve got it down! One of the most fun ways to travel 🙂
I love this, you are a very brave woman. I dont think I could do it, it all seems so chaotic.
The rush hour picture is great, but I would be too scared to drive there.
Heather, I wouldn’t have truly “gotten” this post until I visited Vietnam last month. OK. I was one of those tourists in the pedicab. Was that you on a motorbike coming towards me?
I’ve just discovered your site. What a blast. Congratulations for giving up the old life and relocating to Vietnam. It sounds like a fantastic adventure.
Sherry- you’re a STAR! It’s funny to read this post- proof that you can do anything when you put your mind to it!
I read your Web comments on motorbiking in Saigon before I made the trip and decided to rent my own, hoping to capture the same mix of fear and exhilaration. Now that I’m a veteran of its mayhem, and am sorting the photos and video I shot while riding, I can smile at being part of that rolling, roiling mass, the densest concentration of scooters in the world. But I’ve been home a week and am still coughing from the pollution, despite the nose and mouth filter that I bought on the street for 35 cents.
Roger – I’m SO glad you dove in! That’s not an easy thing to do and you did it! It took me 5 months to finally get up the nerve to get my own bike after being tired of taking motorbike taxis all the time. Yes – the pollution is horrible…in the end I bought a carbon filter mask…but still not the best. That’s really why I only stayed a year…I felt like I might as well be smoking a pack of cigarettes a day!
Where are you posting the photos and video – I’d love to see them and feature them!
Sherry
Love the how the traffic light seemed not to matter in the video. You did assimilate. Kudos.
stay adventurous, Craig
traffic light…there was a traffic light?