Welcome to Shillong near Rickshaw Run finish line
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Rickshaw Run Update From the Road #5

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I’m traveling 2,000 miles through India by motorized rickshaw, raising $15,000 for charity: water. While I’m sweating buckets, becoming one with my horn, avoiding cows, and getting grease under my nails on the road, you can follow along with my Instagram updates.

Sunrise in Kurseong on the Rickshaw Run in India
This morning’s sunrise at Kurseong.
outdoor transportation in India on the Rickshaw Run
The coolest seat on the bus in India is hanging off the back, apparently. I can sometimes hardly believe how many people they can hang off the back, sides, & top of the buses here.

This article is part of the Rickshaw Run series

Driving a rickshaw from Cochin (southern India) to Shillong (northern India) – a distance of approximately 2,000 miles depending on what route we decide on. I’m not in this alone. Team Drive, Sleep, Rupeet is made up of two adventurous women. My teammate Charlie Grosso is one bad-ass chick and an incredible friend.

We are primarily doing this to raise money for charity: water, a non-profit organization that brings clean, safe drinking water to people in developing countries.

Day 11 update

After being locked inside our hotel today and having to bang the metal gate for someone to wake up and let us out, we knew it would be a great day. Three minutes after taking off, the NYPD’s muffler fell completely off, and we spent the morning deafened by their noise and looking for a welder.

rickshaw run mechanic in India
Yes, at the mechanic again. NYPD’s rickshaw lost the muffler, and we had to get it welded back together. Happy morning on day 11 of the Rickshaw Run.

Of course, an hour after we left the welder, our roof rack completely broke, and we had to quickly move all of our bags down in the rickshaw…so it’s a bit cozy now. But at least we didn’t lose anything. Lots of indecision today among the teams – but we finally decided that we had ‘plenty of time’ to make it halfway to Darjeeling in the tea region and up the mountains to get a change of scenery.

Darjeeling tea for breakfast in India on the Rickshaw Run
While in the Darjeeling region, of course, we’ll have tea for breakfast!

We are staying at a cool mountain lodge surrounded by tea plantations tonight in Kurseong. However, getting up this mountain to over 3000 feet with about 17 switchback turns while climbing on crap roads and dealing with oncoming vehicles was a ridiculous adventure that involved our rickshaw having to get pushed constantly by teammates and locals. Even in 1st gear, it didn’t have enough power to climb the mountain – I had it full throttle, and it would peter out.

homes in Kurseong, India on the Rickshaw Run
All the little homes in Kurseung are painted in bright colors and have beautiful flower gardens.

Our engine was taking a beating and was completely overheated, requiring us to stop frequently to try to cool it down with a spray bottle. I’ve never had such a hard time driving a manual transmission vehicle in my life. I actually gave up once, and we asked one of the guys to drive it up, but they couldn’t do it either, and they had more strength to push, so that left me in the driver’s seat.

The sun went down, and we were climbing and pushing in the dark, as we couldn’t run the light, as it was too much of a drain on the engine! But after a couple of hours, we made it to the 12 km to our lodge. Rejoice!

Now…what goes up must come down tomorrow morning…

Learn more about the Rickshaw Run

Day 12 update

It’s getting near the end, and I must admit – I’m ready for a day where we don’t have to drive – it’s been really intense every day, and I think when we arrive, I’m just going to sleep for 24 hours. This morning, though, we did something we never do – we slept in a little bit (until 6 AM) and started later so that we could enjoy the mountains a bit and have a proper breakfast and tea.

After talking to some of the locals, we found out that there was a better road we should have taken up the mountain the night before, which was new and wider – of course, this was all news to us – so we took that one down the mountain. Regardless, the drive down the mountain was nail-biting, and we had to stop a few times to cool down our brakes with little spritzer bottles. Then we took off, thinking we could cover a lot of ground, but we were pretty quickly slowed down due to poor road conditions. Pot holes that swallow a whole rickshaw!

Rickshaw Run Road rules
What has two weeks of driving a rickshaw through India taught me? There is ample space to fit between these trucks and pass.

One of our caravan rickshaws had issues again with the suspension, so we stopped early today to try to get that fixed. Hoping it’s the last fix we need…but somehow I hardly doubt that.

We sang Christmas songs in the rickshaw today to try to get in a cooler state of mind…yes, the fumes have made us delirious. We also just found out that the finish line is at 3000+ feet, which means another fiasco of driving in 1st gear for hours to get up a hill and pushing.

Why does the end have to be so hard?!

gross squat toilet in India on the Rickshaw Run
Any guesses on what this is?
cherry tomatoes from a roadside market in India on the Rickshaw Run
We found a new snack to eat in the Rickshaw – cherry tomatoes found at a little roadside market, so sweet!

Day 13 update

Team dynamics and decision-making are always the most challenging in these types of races, and today we had to make a hard team decision. Our convoy of 3 rickshaws, with whom we’ve been since day 2, got up at 4:30 AM, packed up our rickshaws, and were on the road at 5 AM in an attempt to make it all the way to Shillong tonight.

A pretty low probability that it would be possible before nightfall based on the road conditions and the distance we had to travel, but we were all willing to try. However, as the day burned on and potholes and traffic slowed us down, it was clear that there was no way we were going to make it to Shillong before the sun went down.

Charlie driving on the Rickshaw Run in India
Early 5 am start today with Charlie Grosso at the helm.

We arrived in Guwahati at 3:30 pm with 2 hrs and 30 minutes of sunlight left and only 89 km to go, which would normally be doable. But, all of the intel we had received thus far said that the road from Guwahati to Shillong is a mountain climb to 3000+ ft, and it would take approximately 5 to 6 hrs to complete.

Charlie and I had a very hard decision to make, as if we were to push on to Shillong like the rest of the convoy wanted, then it meant we’d probably be driving until 9 PM at night on mountain road,s and the finish line would be closed so there wasn’t even a possibility of having a finish if we did arrive in Shillong. It would be dark, so we couldn’t film or take photos either.

The rickshaws had been driven hard all day and needed a rest. So Charlie and I decided to stay in Guwahati on our own and leave the convoy so that we could shoot for a proper finish tomorrow. We deliberated on this for hours between the two of us and then with the convoy, but in the end, we knew that we’d have more fun if we did the drive in the morning when we could see, and when we could drive to the finish. So, we are on our own again, just like day one.

one last chai tea in India on the Rickshaw Run
One last chai stop as we head towards Shillong – only abt 40km away!

It wasn’t an easy decision, and we have no idea how our Rickshaw will fare up the mountain climb (especially based on our last experience trying to climb a mountain and having the guys have to push it up), but we decided that we would make it work somehow, even if we had to be towed. The finish line is in our sights tomorrow! Our fundraising goals are also in our sights. Fingers crossed it will be a good morning for the two of us and our little rickshaw.

Day 14 – the finish!

We tried to sleep in today since we only had 90km to go to the finish line – but both of us were anxious and ended up still waking up at 4:30 AM thinking about what was ahead of us…the glorious finish line.

We packed up the shaw one last time and took off at 6:15 am on our own. We slowly climbed the mountain roads passing between trucks like pros. Our little rickshaw handles pretty well in the mornings, so it did ok on the climb this time, and the incline was more gradual, which helped tremendously – no pushing required! At the halfway point, we stopped for chai and some breakfast and let the shaw cool down, then I took over the last half of the driving.

Meghalaya, India on the Rickshaw Run
I already love the state of Meghalaya. It’s so nice and green in the hills. Here we were passing over a dam on our way to Shillong.

The scenery in the state of Meghalaya is really the best we’ve seen; green trees, lakes and rivers with water in them, and little hillside towns. It is a weird mix of cultures in this part of India – near Burma, Bhutan, and Nepal – people’s look and style change. It doesn’t really feel like India. We drove past a beautiful lake and even stopped to take pictures at the ‘Welcome to Shillong’ sign.

Welcome to Shillong near Rickshaw Run finish line

We were entrapped in Shillong city traffic for a while, in which I was so anxious to get to the finish line (only 1 km away) that Charlie had to tell me to stop whining! But finally we saw it – the big banner on the left side of the road, “FINISH.” The feeling of elation and accomplishment overcame us – we had made it there alive!

We drove 2,300 miles in 14 days, the length of India, in a 3-wheeled, 7-horsepower rickshaw – insanity. We did this all in temps well over 100 degrees every day and slept an average of 5 ½ hours a night. We had three major breakdowns, a few minor ones, we hit a gate, rear-ended another rickshaw in front of us, and I accidentally ran over a dog’s tail…but no major accidents.

Rickshaw Run Finish line photo in India
Finished! 2300 miles in 14 days. Let the partying begin!

And the best part – we raised over $15,000 for charity: water and $1000 for Cool Earth. All done with a fabulous teammate, Charlie Grosso, who is the only person I’d ever consider doing this insanity with – she’s a rock. Mission accomplished. Now it’s time for a few beers and about 24 hours of sleep!

Rickshaw Run Survivors Beer token
These are my evening plans!

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10 Comments

  1. Well.. I can understand how new things you have explored. I just wanna say, you are fabulous in expressing your views. I can literally feel while reading your post..!! Superb.. !!

    1. Steve – yes it was pretty intense. Apparently this leg of the Rickshaw Run (Kochi to Shillong) is the longest so that meant you really had to hustle in 2 weeks to make it. Many of the teams drove 14 to 16 hour days and all night to make up mileage. I had one rule and that was that I didn’t want to drive at night – so we pretty much avoided that at least – but it meant for very early mornings and long days.

    1. Hope she feels better now! It was some really challenging travel – but you would have loved the mechanical part of it – not so much the driving though. The oldest person to do it in our race was 60. I felt pretty old doing it at 44!

  2. Amazing! Congratulations! You two rock!! I’m in tears I’m so happy for you. It must have felt so good to cross that finish line. I will never again complain when I miss the bus and have to walk slightly uphill to work.

    1. Thanks Darlene – it was a real challenge for both of us. Probably more so for me since I was sick for most of the time. But totally worth it so see people’s faces when they saw women driving a rickshaw!

  3. I told you you’d make it!

    It was a great adventure for all of us, huh?

    Mongol Rally next year, have already bought the car, so have plenty of time to get it steppe-worthy… I think…

    It was a pleasure meeting you…and teaching you how to drive that beast!

    Jon Swingler
    The Adventurists
    Team For Tuk’s Sake!

  4. At the end of this series I can only congratulate your for your dedication and to say that the articles have been really interesting and fun to read!

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