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Riding the Cultural Rails in Sri Lanka

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I remember being in the locomotive, peering out over the tracks from my high vantage point. My hand was on the lever, and the train was moving slowly forward. Cars disregarded the flashing crossbucks when they saw how slow I was going and crossed the tracks anyway. I looked at my instructor and said, “Don’t they know that I have no idea what I’m doing?!” while I simultaneously blew the horn once again.

That was my introduction to becoming a train engineer. Yes, that’s right. At the age of 23, I became a licensed train engineer when I worked for Union Pacific Railroad. Yes – there’s a whole long story there, but I’ll save that for another day. Suffice it to say that I do love trains, and I love to cross countries by train most of all.

I traveled by train while in Vietnam, China, Morocco, Italy, France, Belgium, Netherlands, and Thailand. Now I can add Sri Lanka to that list.

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One of the best ways to get around the little island nation of Sri Lanka is by train. They are old, crowded, slow; but there’s really no need to ever be in a hurry in Sri Lanka – so we just sat back, relaxed, and watched the green hills go by.

Yeah right…I never really sit back and relax…instead, I was snapping away trying to capture this unique transportation culture. I’m not sure why I’m fascinated with transportation culture – but I am; the riders, food, vendors, conductors, stations, and equipment associated with the train culture are a joy to capture.

In the name of research, we ended up riding each class level they had to offer in Sri Lanka, 3rd, 2nd, and yes – we snuck in and promptly got kicked out of the first class car. Quite frankly – none of the ‘levels’ were anything to write home about – but for Sri Lanka travel they were fine.

In 2nd and 3rd class, don’t expect cushioned seats or, for that matter, don’t expect any sort of reserved seat. When the train pulled into the station, it was a free-for-all. I watched as old women dressed in colorful saris pushed their way onto a crowded train. I watched as luggage and babies were passed through the windows in order to save seats quickly. In fact, since I was traveling as a couple, we picked up on this ‘tag team’ way to get a seat and used it quite often. No, Russ didn’t hoist me through the window, but he did put the bags through the window while I raced on as quickly as possible, trying to claim our bag and seat. Most of the time, it worked.

However, we did experience one memorable train ride on a holiday weekend that was so tightly packed with people that I couldn’t move. We had to stand for 3 hours on a train that was wall-to-wall people. Twice as many people as were intended were piled into the seats, so quite frankly, no one could move. Needless to say, it was a long ride, but strangely, one of my favorites. Why are the best travel memories the worst experiences at the time?

Trains plodded along slowly and normally you could go to the end of the car and stand next to the open door for air and a better view. The view on the tracks was just as interesting. The tracks were like a trail to the locals, everyone walked on them to/from their destinations and simply stood to the side to let the trains pass.

If you are in Sri Lanka, I highly recommend using the trains as your mode of transportation whenever possible. The cost is inexpensive for a 4+ hour train ride, and it is a place where you can really experience the culture. A perfect way to travel!

If you really like train travel, then be sure to follow the Ultimate Train Challenge this summer. While I’m driving across Central Europe towards Mongolia, other travel bloggers will be participating in the challenge of taking a train from Lisbon to Saigon!  Yeah – we are all a bit crazy!

It’s hard to find a good site with Sri Lanka train travel info – but this, by far, was the best – How to Travel By Train in Sri Lanka and Sri Lanka Railways (timetables)

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18 Comments

  1. I’ve only heard about Sri Lanka as a travel destination in the last year but these pictures make me really want to go! Seriously, I think these are some of my favorites that you have posted. Not only do I love train travel, but the lush green scenery with a dose of chaos sound delightful!

  2. You never fail to surprise – a rail engineer…

    I have travelled train journey in India and it is one of travel’s great experiences. I can only assume that Sri Lankan rail is much the same. Great photos and capture of mood as always…

  3. Lovely Photos.Srilanka Train Travelling is Very Interesting.specily hill country.coastel line also nice.

  4. Beautiful photos and story of rail travel through Sri Lanka. I associate train travel with India, but hadn’t thought about Sri Lanka in the same way. Thanks for sharing!

  5. Great photos! I love travelling by train in Sri Lanka, whether it’s along the coast or through the gorgeous hill country. I love that the doors are wide open and you can hang out for fresh air and to enjoy the views. They go so slowly it doesn’t feel dangerous!

  6. fantastic photos! Like Audrey, I’ve never associated train travel with Sri Lanka. Anyway, I’d love to do more train travels and this post really inspires me.

  7. Sherry, the composition of your photos is incredible–wonderful the way you draw the eye in with lines and color! The imagery is lush and says “sloooow.” I like trains too, the gentle rolling back and forth is quite soothing–although I guess not if I am standing up for 3 hours!

  8. Brings back many memories of the 3 months I spent volunteering in Lanka after the tsunami. The coastal train was not running as the tracks were still damaged and of course, the train wreck in Galle. I happened to be in Galle the day the engine was removed from the jungle. It was placed back on tracks with a sign placed in front. The sky was so eerie in early evening. A surreal moment from my time there that I will never forget.

    1. Thanks for sharing the story – it sounds like a really powerful memory. We rode the train from Galle – I loved it! Training around the country was one of my favorite things about my time there!

      1. Dear Kevin.

        You have a good memory of Sri Lanka and also the you had a hard time here in Sri Lanka with your volunteer work with your friends. It’s a very hard time in Sri Lanka.We appreciate your commitment in that time to help Sri Lankan.
        Hope you remember me. Sudarman

  9. It’s so cool that you’re a licensed train engineer! Well done ;-D

    I am not (I’m sad to say), but I do love trains to, one of mye favourite ways of transportation.

    Thanks for sharing your experiences and the tips! I’ll make sure to follow the Train Challenge 😉

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