“Put, Put, Puuuut, Putttttt, Puttttt, Purrrrrttttttt….”The slurping, whirring, bubble noise broke through the background lounge music startling me. Next came the sweet smell of apple wafting through the air, hanging there enveloping the entire area in a haze. This same scene went on ever night in ever corner of Lebanon. Lebanon was always smoking; smoking the big, beautiful, aromic, fashionable nargile.
If you want to fit in while in Lebanon, then you must learn how to smoke the hookah pipe.
The exact origins of hookah are unclear. Many believe that it originated in India. Today, hookah is popular in the Middle East, Turkey, and parts of Asia and Africa.
The Hookah Pipe’s Many Names and Flavors
Egyptians call it Shisha, Lebanese refer to it as Nargile, in English, it is Hookah; however I prefer the name Hubbly Bubbly. But they all can agree that it’s really called a form of relaxation. The word actually comes from the Persian word for glass. This ancient glass water pipe has been used for centuries in the Middle East to smoke away the day’s stress, while relaxing with friends and family. Flavors can include apple, cinnamon, mint, cappuccino, strawberry and any other number of fruits which actually make it a pleasant experience to be around; even if you don’t smoke it!
I became fascinated with the culture around the Hookah pipe in Lebanon. I had been exposed to hubbly bubbly when I traveled through Egypt, however it seemed that the Lebanese took it to a whole new level.
Every bit of their social culture centered around nargile and as I spent more time there I started to really notice the whole industry behind the social relaxation pastime.
Hooka Pipe Roles and Responsibilities in Lebanon
At a typical bar/lounge/coffee shop in Lebanon you will not only find waiters, cooks, and doormen, but you’ll also find numerous people simply employed to manage the nargile consumption. There’s the man who keeps preparing coals out back – a dirty, hot job no doubt.
Nargile Waiter
Then there’s the nargile ‘waiter’ – his sole responsibility is to bring the pipe, get it loaded with the correct flavored tobacco, and then get it started for you. He carries his own little tip that goes in the end of the pipe that touches your lips. He gets the pipe started, and then you use your own tip for sanitary reasons. In fact – if a whole table has nargile, then everyone has their own tip that they quickly put in and utilize while they smoke.
Coal Waiter
Next there’s the coal ‘waiter’ He’s the man that carries a metal basket (normally ornately decorated with a little hand guard so that his fingers won’t be burned by the heat of the coals), with matching tongs. He carefully takes off your old coals and gingerly but precisely places 3 new coals on top of the pipe to keep the nargile burning at the correct temperature. This swapping of coals happens literally about every 10 minutes.
A waiter replenishes his coal carrier The ornate coal carriers with finger guards
For the excessive amount of attention these hubbly bubbly waiters pay to you, they also get tipped separately. The pipe and smoking itself is actually rather cheap. Overall I was amazed at the attention paid to the pipes and the complete process in bars all over Lebanon. The pipes employ a whole separate staff of people that we don’t really have in America; and that’s why it stood out to me.
Hubbly Bubbly Stores and Gear
In addition, the water pipe culture has necessitated a whole retail culture too. You don’t have to go far in Lebanon to find massive hubbly bubbly stores where you can buy pipes, tobacco, tips, hoses, coal containers, and tongs. They range from super high end to basic and generic.
A little furry flair… All colors, sizes and designs…
Most families have a hooka pipe in their home, but if you don’t there’s no need to worry as you can simply have a pipe with tobacco delivered to your door! Then they’ll come pick it up the next day.
While visiting Lebanon, why not visit a Hooka store? I found them fascinating to walk through!
Is Smoking Shisha Dangerous?
Like most fun social pastimes it comes with a price, smoking shisha once is equal to smoking 30 cigarettes. Basically according to a BBC report on the subject one session of smoking shisha resulted in carbon monoxide levels at least four to five times higher than the amount produced by one cigarette.
In addition to the health effects, I also noticed that even though it is a social pastime, it’s not very social. By getting a pipe and having it placed by your table – it doesn’t really encourage mingling and meeting other people by walking around. Instead – you are tethered to the pipe at your table.
Even more strange I saw a number of people just sitting smoking while texting on their cell phone in a bar; which all seemed rather silly to me.
After 2 months in the Middle East being surrounded by it, I actually never tried it , instead I enjoyed the atmosphere, industry, and culture around it. Plus – the smell wasn’t too bad either!
By Donna Hull March 15, 2011 - 10:56 am
A fascinating look at an element of culture in Lebanon. What about lung cancer statistics? It seems to me that there would be a very high rate of it considering the importance placed on the hubbly bubbly.
By Sherry March 17, 2011 - 6:38 am
Good question Donna – I’m not sure about the cancer stats – but I can tell you that no one seemed particularly worried about it – plus – most people there smoke cigarettes anyway!
By Debbie Beardsley March 15, 2011 - 4:57 pm
Although I don’t think I’d try it, I always enjoy learning about different cultural pastimes.
I wonder about lung cancer too.
By Mark H March 16, 2011 - 4:07 pm
I smoked one of these in a bazaar (or is that bizarre) in Cairo. While it isn’t for me I do appreciate the peaceful, chatty social environment – maybe a little similar to a wine bar or cafe here in Australia.
By Ed July 10, 2012 - 8:22 pm
As a Lebanese, i can say that smoking the shisha is a great past time. The Carbon from the shisha is mostly the result of the wood charcoal. In lebanon a special kind of shisha charcoal is made from coconut, 100% natural. This charcoal is called coconara. It is now available in Australia as i came across it on the web the other day. WEll all i can say is this , atleast smoking the shisha is a bit less harmful now 🙂
their website is
http://www.coco-nara.com.au
By tripgirl6 March 17, 2011 - 5:04 am
Seems like a lot of work just for a smoke… =) but you do have to appreciate their culture and hygienic practice. This seems like a tradition passed on from dads to sons.
By Bluegreen Kirk March 17, 2011 - 7:23 am
Good to see that they have a place and past time that bring people together. I dont smoke so I dont this it would be something I would really care to be around
By sahil jham July 8, 2011 - 11:17 am
please dont smoke shisha or hokha this cause you a slow painfull death ok if you have to smoke than stop breating.
By Emcat June 12, 2012 - 3:55 pm
This reminds me of my first hookah experience at money’s mediterranean
cafe(mooneysmedcafe.com)
I was little and I didn’t think much of it. My mom at the time hadn’t herd of it either. She and her friend thought the sign said “hooker bar”. I remember the dude explaining how the hookah worked to my mom. It was out side at night. The hookah was on the table and there was just one guy smoking it at the table. I remember the really sweet smell and the bubbles. My mom and I were a couple tables down from the guy. I don’t think they do hookahs anymore because of the NC restaurant smoking ban. Really cool.
By Nima H. July 23, 2013 - 4:52 pm
Thanks for a great post. Smoking hookah is part of every day living in Middle East. You referenced the BBC report on health issues associated with hookah. Hookah is not safe, what most of those reports fail to mention is the fact that the hookah tobacco is washed quite a bit, a hookah smoker doesnt typically inhale the smoke, and shisha doesnt have all the additive chemicals as cigarettes does.
Great article again. Will be sharing it with our readers. 🙂
By Chris July 24, 2013 - 12:50 pm
I would just like to point out that the study published points to carbon monoxide as the danger link between cigarettes and hookah. It doesn’t have anything to do with the tars and other harmful things that cigarettes have in them. Hookah may be harmful to your health, but no study I have seen shows any direct linkage of hookah and cancer, especially on the levels of cigarette smokers.
By Arturas July 24, 2013 - 8:44 pm
It so sad to see when everywhere around internet people referring to those “bbc” and other articles about hookah=100 cigarettes. Which has not been proved at all…
By Ali Anka September 8, 2013 - 2:50 pm
Nice to see my self on the cover pic
It was a nice shot …ive lost a lot of weight since then :p
Hookah is a daily thing and its not only a lebanese or middle eastren now you can find it all over the world.
There is no doubt it is harmful but i take it as a nice thing to do while spending time with friends .
Although you can find it ay every home and some people smoke hokaah twice or more daily but with no friends around you and a nice place to spent time in its not that good.
Hope you visit lebanon more ..
By Emily Rumpf May 23, 2017 - 8:24 am
It is really a very enjoyable article. Although, smoking is harmful for our health. I am also addicted in smoking. In the ancient time smoking hookah is a traditional thing. Moreover, it is a wonderful article and the overall enjoyment is more enthusiastic. Thanks for sharing a joyful article.
By L. Josserand August 6, 2020 - 9:28 am
The article was nice enough, but I was slightly miffed by the link at the end of your piece which took me not to an article on shisha history and culture that you had especially enjoyed (your promise) but instead to a purely commercial website devoted to “One Stop Shop For Hookah, etc…”, with no thoughtful article in sight. You might want to correct either the promise or the web link, to reflect the full truth about exactly where you are sending your readers.
I am also a little surprised that you couldn’t take at least one puff on the subject of your piece. While many years of smoking 20 cigarettes a day can certainly kill you in the end, one puff on a hookah is probably safer (statistically) than driving to work. Also, I still don’t know if the local women ever participate in this practice in Lebanon, in public? in private?
By Sherry August 6, 2020 - 10:51 am
So sorry about that link at the end. I don’t know if the original article I linked to changed their content or what. But I never would have linked to that site and I’m not trying to trick anyone. I have removed it. Thanks for letting me know!
By L. Josserand August 7, 2020 - 2:46 am
Thank you very much for your prompt reply. Sorry to be such a stickler about these things. I did enjoy your article and I will look forward to reading more of your work. Take care!
By Tuah Shisha June 29, 2022 - 4:25 am
I really enjoyed reading this article. Smoking is another addiction of mine. Hookah smoking was traditional back in ancient times. Furthermore, the article is great and we enjoyed it very much.