Postcard from Astorga Spain

hammock

A lovely little place to rest along the Camino close to Astorga Spain

After a lovely break in Carrion de los Condes and getting treated to a scrumptious steak dinner from a retired doctor from Canada, things could only go downhill from there – and they did. Fast forward to me puking in a albergue toilet to begin week 3 of my Camino de Santiago journey .

I knew something was wrong as I was walking my 26k, I started deteriorating after about 10k. I felt tired and began to yawn while I was walking, and then my shoulders started to get sore, followed by a headache. These were not the normal aches, pains, and exhaustion of the Camino – this was the flu.

Strangely the flu passed through me quickly and this ended up being my strongest week yet which reminded me that just when you think you at your lowest, things turn around. I covered 89 miles over 6 days (144km) which makes a total of 278 miles of my 441 miles overall. A strange feeling hit me this week – you stop thinking/worrying about IF you will make it, and after you hit halfway you start to worry about the fact that you ARE going to make it and this journey will come to an end. The mind can be such a roller coaster at times.

This week I owned the meseta, the high plains of Spain. Everyone warned me about the meseta – they said it was ugly, flat, boring, long, and hot. But I love an underdog and from the moment I had heard all of this bad talk about the meseta I had decided that I would like it – yes, I’m just that stubborn. When I got onto the meseta and started taking it all in, I realized quickly that this was not an ugly or boring place – this was basically just like the Midwest (Illinois) where I grew up. This familiar landscape immediately made me happy, and it sent me in mental directions I never would have imagined.

In addition, I used the long, flat distances between villages to try to work/think on things such as the annual Meet Plan Go! career break presentation and event plans. I also worked on something that has had me frustrated for years – I tried to teach myself how to roll R’s – a sound included in so many languages but sadly not in American English. I looked up some instructions/exercises on the internet and came across these instructions from Benny at Fluent in Three Months – for the next 17k I was doing tongue exercises, repeating words, and trying to say “Erre con erre cigarro. Erre con erre barril. Rápido corren los carros sobre los rieles del ferrocarril” It was great practice, but I still have a long way to go. My rolled R is sort of in slow motion yet – but hopefully by the time I reach Santiago I will be successful!

snail crossing

This little snail crosses the Camino on the meseta...talk about a risk taker!

green field

Feilds of green remind me of home on the meseta

gate

A gate without a fence...an interesting image and thought to ponder

Physical

The flu was a physical hiccup I wasn’t planning, but it really did pass through my body quickly, so after one really horrible day of discomfort and wobbling into the albergue, puking, sleeping for 14 hours – I was better.

My feet also started to play nice this week. The flat, even surfaces helped a great deal (another reason to love the meseta!). However, my heel blisters were so deep under the tough skin that I was unable to get them drained properly until a lovely couple from Holland gave me my very own sterile scalpel…just what every trekker wants and needs! The scalpel allowed me to actually cut an incision into the thick skin and keep the blisters open and drained while I continued to walk. My other heel blisters seemed to have calmed down and toughen up a bit on the flat – so things are looking up for my feet! Granted, they are still super sore at the end of the day, but yours would be too if you were walking 16 miles a day…every day.

Mental

For anyone who doesn’t think that it’s necessary to take time away from your day to day routines to clear your head then I’m here to tell you that you are wrong. This week is when things started to really come unplugged for me in my mind. It became about the freedom to simply think – think about my life, my goals, my decisions, my family, my friends, my culture, my shortcomings, and my satisfaction. It was so powerful at times that I found myself crying in the middle of a field. It wasn’t tears of sadness – it was tears of …well – I don’t really know…freedom of thought I guess. Memories, thoughts, ideas, conclusions all rushed at me on Saturday as I walked along a particularly ugly part of the trail (yes – those exist in great quantity at times).

It was a simple smell that stopped me in my tracks. I was walking alone through some fields and a big tractor was out working in the fields tilling up the soil getting ready for planting season. The wind was blowing just right and I suddenly was breathing in the odor of freshly tilled soil and it hit me like a tidal wave. All of a sudden I was 9 years old again and my father was tilling in our garden and my brother and I were planting peas fighting with each other as normal. I stopped walking and just stood there as memories of childhood summers came back to me. I wondered how in the world 33 years went by. I thought about where I was at this moment – in a field in Spain and how never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined myself here in this life I have chose for myself – wandering the world. The whole experience made me miss my childhood, my brother and sister as well as my parents and what we all had. And it also made me take stock of how far we had all come. Jobs, marriages, kids, houses, travel…it was a good life inventory to take for that moment. It made me appreciate all of our lives and connections that I had taken for granted. Who says that your senses aren’t powerful…even your sense of smell can transport you to places that you hadn’t thought possible.

I feel like I am starting to really form a direction again for myself – as I had become a bit lost in the last year. I’m reconfirming things and getting back to basics of what I know makes me happy and satisfied. Having time to think is so wonderful. No distractions, it’s just you and the trail. It’s comforting, and I already know I’m going to miss it when I reach Santiago.

sunrise meseta

The sun rising up over the 'boring' meseta

camino meseta

The meseta looks pretty much like the Midwestern US

religious camino

Religious monument along the meseta

Lodging

I’m convinced my sickness this week was meant to be since it made me change my daily mileage and landed me in the town of Bercianos de Real Camino where I had an eye opening experience at a public hostel like nothing I’ve had before. This was a public albergue that was donation based. My Rayo iphone guide had said

“the municipal albergue in Bercianos is an experience you won’t soon forget! The old home seems to be falling apart, yet most come out thrilled to have stayed and having experienced something unique.”

When I arrived two lovely men sat me down, gave me biscuits and water, scrutinized my credentials making sure I was a real walking pilgrim, and then gave me the schedule and ‘rules’. People helped make dinner at 6PM, everyone ate at 7PM, small church service at 9:30PM, lights out and in bed at 10PM.

That night at dinner the men announced (via Pilgrim translators) that they are running the albergue during their 2 week vacation since they believe in keeping the Camino spirit and pilgrimage alive. The albergue has volunteers manage the hostel throughout the year. That night at the albergue there were 39 people form 14 different countries. We all introduced ourselves and out country and then after dinner we all had to sing songs from our country as well as a Camino song in Spanish – more chances for me to practice my R’s! Then everyone pitched in and cleaned the dishes, did a little church service and went to bed. It was a night that I thought was going to be corny and all I wanted to do was sleep, but soon I was swept up in the atmosphere these men created and ended up having a fabulous and memorable night. I gave them big hugs upon leaving the next day and thanking them for their commitment.

albergue pilgrim

The men running the Bercianos municiple albergue - left me with such great memories

city walls

An old, crumbling city wall surrounds Mansilla de las Mulas at sunrise

river fog

A fog hangs over a river crossing on the Camino

Food

I swear I have a bottomless appetite. I don’t know how many calories I’m taking in each day, but it’s a lot. Even with all of the calories I’m definitely shrinking. I eat a sweet pastry breakfast in the morning with coffee, then snack on bags of nuts, fruits, tuna, breakfast bars, olives, chocolate, and sometimes potatoe and egg tortilla during the walking day – and then at night I have a 3 course pilgrim meal.

However when I arrived in Leon this week I had a mission – and that mission was a Big Mac. I actually walked an extra 2k to get to the McDonalds in Leon and that night my pilgrim meal was a Diet Coke, super salty fries, a big mac, and a hot fudge sundae – I was in heaven. Sometimes, you just need a familiar taste when you travel, it doesn’t mean that you are a horrible person or traveler, it just means that you are hungry for a burger and some familiarity.

breakfast camino

My typical breakfast...that pastry is sticky sweet and filled with cream...heaven

spain landscape

We had some beautiful weather last week - this was the view heading into Astorga

rocky trail

A rocky descent - makes me slow down...

Gear

My trail running shoes are doing ok this week – but they are great on the flat – light and flexible. I’m a bit more worried for the coming week which has me climbing over proper mountains and down steep descents – that’s where the trail shoes are really put to the test. I sort of wish I could just duct tape the shoes to my feet so that my feet didn’t move around in the shoes creating blisters!

My favorite travel gear this week is my Trekr travel washcloth  it’s perfect for this trip. It dries super fast, is odorless, and never needs to be washed. I’m also loving my smart wool socks as they dry fast too overnight after being washed out in the bathroom sink. My silicon earplugs are an absolute miracle as they actually allow me to sleep amongst 30 other people in the albergues. In fact they are so good that they allow me to sleep through everyone leaving in the morning. I wake up and everyone is gone in my room!

People

This week I was on my own as Katherine had to slow down due to a knee issue. I really missed her this week – it’s been really solitary lately – but at the same time, I think that’s what I needed for this section. I still see her at night for dinners and I leave her little messages and gummy bears along the trail. I basically walk alone during the day saying hello to people and maybe sharing a few sentences, and then doing all of my socializing at the albergues in the evenings.

This week I met new people from Canada, Germany, South Africa, America, Holland, Japan, England, and Bolivia (a Bolivian family runs the cute San Javier Albergue in Astroga). A special mention goes to my bunkmate from Germany, Ullie, who had to sleep with me throwing up. He was an angel and I’ll never forget him!

This week some of the most important people for me have been my ‘digital cheering section’ – yes…you. The outpouring of support has been amazing and I am thankful that I have so many people concerned about me and sending me good vibes…thank you.

My support team of Rayo Travel has been a lifesaver this week – I forgot my favorite travel scarf (with me for 5 years) at the albergue where I had the flu and they are getting it back for me and I’ll pick it up in Santiago when I finish. This story of lost travel gear has a much better ending than my story of the Dissapearing Traveling Pants! It is so wonderful to have someone in the area ‘on the ground’ supporting you – thanks team Rayo!

leon cathedral

The stunning cathedral in Leon Spain

camino de santiago

A metal structure across the trail provides more thought diversions

astorga

Me arriving in Astorga - happy for another rest day!

 

Next week brings on mountain climbs that I’m very nervous about. However, having JacoTrans transporting my heaviest luggage allows me to keep my bag lighter to get over the mountains – so thankful for their luggage transport service! I will be climbing to 4,250 feet, but one way or the other I will make it…even if I have to duct tape my shoes on!

As I was walking this week I saw a little quote that I loved that I think really applies for everyone that I will leave you with – “Even if you don’t know where you are going, just go!”

You can follow my journey along in ‘real time’ on my Facebook page – OttsworldTravel

Please leave comments and questions as your support as I walk is greatly appreciated and just knowing people are out there following me keeps me going!

View my first week and second week of trials and tribulations on the trail as well as the photography on the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage.

View Camino de Santiago Week 3 Photography:

Your Comments

13 Comments so far

  1. amy says:

    Love following along with you. We watched “The Way” this week to get a feel for the trail and what you are doing. Between the movie and your updates we are starting to want to do it!!! Hugs to you! Health and happiness to you.

  2. Cat says:

    So glad I saw you on the Travel Bloggers facebook group! I’ve been living in Spain for five years, and next year’s summer goal is the Camino. Looking forward to following along!

    Buen Camino, cat

  3. Linda says:

    I still can’t find words to tell you how much I am enjoying these posts. It definitely makes me want to do the Camino more and more each time. Your insights about how it affects you mentally even more than physically (I think) are fascinating, proving that this really is a personal kind of test/journey, spiritual but not “religious”, to be shared by everyone. And I LOVE that quote you found! Much luck with the mountains! Te anima!……Oh, and I still have trouble rolling my Rs even after 20-odd years living in Spain!

  4. MDTaz says:

    You have recorded so beautifully some of the emotions I am only beginning to experience (I hiked 5 days last week, stopped, and will return to the Camino this weekend) and your photographs are stunning. I’m aching to be back, walking on the Camino, and reading your post gave me a little feeling like I’m still there.

  5. Nailah says:

    Great photos and information! My cousin & I are planning on doing this walk for her 50th birthday in a few years. I just sent her this link for inspiration! :-) Thank you!

  6. Oh Sherry, I really enjoyed this post. Glad to hear things are going better and that you’re getting closer to the end! I love mountains, so I can’t wait to see your photos and hear about the experience.

  7. Sharon Miro says:

    Sherry,

    Reading these posts is almost like being right along side you, except for the blisters!
    Sometimes, just a whiff of something will provide a memory so strong it will almost bring me to my knees, so I could especially relate to that scene you described in the field…Your will is strong, and your comittment is solid. Carry on!

  8. Carmel says:

    I can’t tell you how many times I’ve practiced that saying, “Erre con erre cigarro…” It definitely helps. My biggest problem is saying them next to consonants, like in “madre”. Just can’t get it done quickly enough.

    Anyway, I think the meseta looks beautiful. I remember when I was driving across the country with an ex, we were told Wisconsin was going to be SO boring…but I really liked it! I thought it was fun to be able to see so far.

  9. Beautiful post Sherry, thanks for sharing.

  10. Sherry, glad to hear your Camino continues to bring epiphanies and adventure. Hospitaleros are a great gift to pilgrims on the Camino. I served as one last fall. It was an honor to give back to the Camino for all the grace I recieved when I walked. Maybe you will give it a go sometime in the future?

    • Sherry says:

      Hmmm – Hadn’t considered that up until now…but it’s an intriguing thought. A great way to give back but also see the side of the Camino that stands still.

  11. Tim Niiler says:

    Great pictures and stories to go with them. I have to laugh because my wife, a Spanish prof, tried to teach me to roll my R’s (probably somewhere between Burgos and Leon). I remember saying “borracho” again and again as I walked, perhaps for several days, before I asked what it meant… “drunk” was the translation. :-)

    • Sherry says:

      Thanks! I’m so thrilled that someone else was talking to themselves on the trail! Were you ever successful with the R’s? Mine are still pretty sucky. Will need more practice and more hikes in my future!


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