The Culture of Chinatown New York City
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My friends and I decided to go out of the country this weekend – and we took the Q train to do so. The subway doors opened up, and we stepped out into China – Chinatown, New York City. One of the many things I love about New York City is its diversity. But it’s not just diversity; it’s really a melting pot. You can walk from neighborhood to neighborhood in New York City and experience totally different cultures.
Today, we were entering China, planning to spend the day soaking up the unique and strong Asian culture in Chinatown. You can easily spend a day in this vibrant, crowded neighborhood in the city, and here are some of the things I suggest you do to soak up that culture. And it has nothing to do with shopping!
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Dim Sum in Chinatown NYC
The Spanish call it tapas, the Greeks call it mezes, and the Chinese call it dim sum. We decided to head to Chinatown this Sunday for dim sum, a treat that I hadn’t had since I was last in Hong Kong! For those of you who are not familiar with dim sum, let me tell you what you are missing. Small plates and steamers of dumplings, pot stickers, steamed buns, fried things, noodles, sticky rice, and gelatinous desserts rolled by your table by a Chinese woman. You see something you like on that cart, you point to it, and it end up on your table immediately, more carts come by, you point to more things, and you have a leisurely lunch surrounded by Asian culture.
Actually – who am I kidding, it never happens like that – that would be way too civilized for China Town (I mean that last statement in the nicest way). In the hustle/bustle, no personal space of Chinatowns around the world – dim sum is anything but civilized…it’s chaotic…and that’s what I love about it.
Normally, the woman who rolls by the cart states what is on her cart of goodies in broken English. She then tries to convince you to take a few plates, going as far as placing them on your table for you before you can really answer. Soon after, the next cart lady rolled up and did the same. Before you know it, you have a table full of small plates of items that you have never seen before and are wondering what they are and a bit scared to ask.
Carts start to line up around your table like planes trying to land at Newark on a Friday night. They all try to talk you into choosing something from them – much like a true Asian market that I have come to love. As they place the small plates of noodle-y goodness on your table, they add it to your table bill in Chinese characters so that you really have no idea what you have purchased. Green tea flows, and at some point, you learn to be forceful with the cart ladies and say the words ‘no more’…your belly full of dumplings, sauce, and tea.
It’s a wonderful light lunch if you can learn to say ‘no’ soon enough, or else it can be rather filling! However, the beauty of dim sum in a ‘local’ restaurant in Chinatown is that it is cheap…super cheap. Halfway through the meal, you start to get a bit worried that you have about 18 plates on your table (granted – there were 5 of us!) – then you get the bill and realize that it’s only $12 a piece…a bargain in NYC.
Travel to China Without a Passport
The biggest benefit of the afternoon was the trip to Chinatown itself – a chance to experience a new culture while staying put in America. Unbeknownst to us, this Sunday was the day that all of the businesses in Chinatown celebrated Chinese New Year with lion dances.
Experience Chinatown in Oahu, Hawaii
A lion dance is done inside or outside a business establishment in order to bring good luck and fortune to the business – and it puts some money in the dancer’s pocket as well. As we walked up to our Dim Sum restaurant on Mott Street, a lion-dancing team was emerging from the restaurant…good timing on our part! We were entering a restaurant full of good fortune. After dim sum, we walked around the area for a bit, following a few lion dance teams and watching all of the excitement and celebration. It’s a far cry from being in Asia for Chinese New Year, but it’s as close as you can get when you are stateside.
Chinatown Prices, the Cheapest in New York City
However, a visit to Chinatown in NYC will not only transport you to another time but also to another economy. I can’t visit Chinatown without coming back with a bag full of fruit or fish, which is half the cost of what I pay on the Upper West Side.
Plus, it’s the only place I can find the needed ingredients to make a proper Thai or Vietnamese meal. That’s where I can find green papayas for my favorite Thai salad. You can even find Vietnamese water spinach…I was stunned. I was about as stunned as the little shop owner was when I asked for it. They brought it out of a back room for me – I think it arrived from Vietnam just that morning!
Chinatown in NYC should probably be called Little Asia since it contains people and products from all over Asia, not just China. You’ll find some of the best Thai, Chinese, and Vietnamese restaurants there, and even some ‘fusion restaurants’ such as the China Town Ice Cream Factory. The Ice Cream Factory mixes Western and Asian tastes into yummy little creations like green tea, lemon grass, or ginger ice cream.
If you really want to feel like you are in Asia and getting a bargain – just be brave and wander into one of the local tea houses. You will find that you are surrounded by elderly Chinese people, sipping tea, gossiping, and eating pork buns. I stopped into my favorite tea house recently, Mei Lai Wah (which pretty much used to resemble a greasy diner but has now opened a newer store), and had two fresh pork buns, three pork dumplings, and a cup of tea for a total of $4.50. The best part is that I even get to use some of my language skills. I found myself saying hello and thank you in both Mandarin and Thai on my latest trip to Chinatown.
The Year of the Rat, New York City Style
My friends and I ended our Chinese New Year’s Day with a walk around the southern tip of NYC – a blustery day, but it was worth it to get out and really explore with my camera again. That’s when we saw the flattened rat, and I couldn’t pass it up since it is officially the year of the rat! Unfortunately, this rat met its doom and didn’t even make it to its special Asian year. I thought about how much the Thai family that I stayed with in Northern Thailand would have loved this rat (maybe a little less flat) – they would have whipped up a wonderful dinner with it! Whether you are running from them, celebrating them, or eating them – rats are here to stay in NYC.
As I have integrated back into my home culture in NYC, I find that I gravitate to Chinatown now – and no, not for the fake purses or shopping! I feel more comfortable there than in many neighborhoods in NY. As I stroll around, it brings back fond memories of my travels and my family living halfway across the world.
Prior to my around-the-world travel, I had lived in NYC for 3 ½ years, and I probably went to Chinatown a total of 5 times – whenever visitors were in town and wanted to drag me down there. Since I’ve come back from my trip, I’ve been to Chinatown about once a week. It is my little escape from the US – and it’s only a cheap subway ride.
Sure – I’d rather be in Asia, but if you can’t – it’s the next best thing.
Hi Sherry,
I enjoyed reading your blog entry.
I´ve never been to New York nor Chinatown and now I can imagine it a bit better than before. But I´ve Always asked myself if Chinatown was really integrated in New Yorks society.
Because of it´s history which was full of racism against chinese people I wonder if it changed.
What was your feeling when you visited Chinatown. Do you think the rest of New York accepts it?
Greetings from Germany,
Your Sophie Ott