Testing the Lycian Way
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It was the last week of the Camino de Santiago, and I had left Sarria and walked 25 km for the day to the next big town. Since I had spent a rest day in Sarria, all of my familiar friends had walked ahead of me, and I was once again left to make new ones. That’s how I ended up planning my next big travel adventure.
I sat at dinner with a new walking friend I had met from New Zealand. He was fascinating and was a good walker as he had started at the beginning of the Camino Frances and had made it this far in great time. We talked about other hikes and walks we had done and that’s when I first heard the words Lycian Way.
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The Lycian Way is an ancient hiking trail from Fethiye and Antalya, covering about 500 km of the rugged coastline. He had completed the 500 km hiking trail in southwestern Turkey a few years back with his teenage son. That’s all he had to say – and I was hooked. That night I started Googling the Lycian Way to learn more about this little-known trail and found the book titled The Lycian Way by Kate Clow (considered the bible of the Lycian Way) which mapped out the entire trail which provided all of the information you needed to know about hiking the long, challenging distance. I knew then that the Lycian Way would be on my travel itinerary for 2013.
And that’s exactly how my crazy travel ideas begin…just like that – a random mention of something over dinner with a stranger, a minuscule bit of research, and a fire in my belly. Done.
And as luck would have it I was able to plan a little test run of the Lycian way as part of my Intrepid Travel Turkey trip. The Best of Turkey itinerary had us hiking a small portion of the Lycian Way for a day. I was overjoyed at strapping back on my trail shoes and backpack to do the little 6k hike from the little village of Kayakoy to Oludeniz.
Kayakoy is a ‘ghost village’; its ancient stone houses were left uninhabited after their Greek inhabitants left Turkey during the great population exchange of the 1920s. We started the hike by walking up the hillside ‘ghost’ village exploring the ruins of the town. Then, the real work began. We continued upwards, climbing a steep, rocky path that was way more technical than anything I had done in my 5 weeks on the Camino de Santiago. Sweat was rolling down every part of my body as no one in their right mind would hike this trail in July!
But soon, we were up and over the hill, through some scrubby forest, and we had popped out on the ledge of the coast hills looking over the turquoise Mediterranean. The trail had a number of hairpin turns and technical spots, which kept you focused on your feet instead of the view most of the time. But this was a wonderful taste of what the entire Lycian Way trail would be like – challenging hiking and beautiful coastal views.
For the whole ‘test’ hike, I took photos and made mental notes, considering what this would be like when I came back in 2013 to complete the whole trail. It would certainly be more challenging than the Camino, but I welcome the challenge. At the same time, I imagine it to be a bit more culturally immersive, too. The good news is that I already have two comrades who are planning on walking the full 500 km with me next year – Warren and Betsy Talbot from the website Married with Luggage. These are two of my favorite people on the globe, and I can’t wait to tackle this challenge with them.
For now, I have tucked all of these notes and pictures away in order to prepare for next year’s challenge. There will be much more to come on the Lycian Way…
See all the photos of my test hike on Lycian Way.
Disclosure: I was a guest of Intrepid Travel for this experience. However, the opinions expressed are all mine.
We did our small Lycian Way hike the opposite direction from Oludeniz – past the Butterfly Canyon to the neighbouring village. I loved it! We passed by small farms and villages, through forests and honey bee farms, over hills and through valleys. Doing the whole trail would be amazing!
Gillian – reading about your experience makes me even more excited to hike this!
Oh wow – I am bookmarking this post! Shawna and I finished our Camino de Santiago in mid September last year, and I would love to take on another adventure like this. Plus you get to go with Warren and Betsy!! I have met these 2 as well, and oh, that could be trouble!
Sherry – you always find the most interesting hikes. Can hardly wait to read all about it.
This sounds like an amazing challenge, Sherry! I was in that part of the world a couple of summers ago now and it’s stunning. I didn’t hike the Lycian Way (although I did try an ill-fated hike up to Kayakoy from Fethiye: note to self – read distances next time).
I didn’t realise that the whole route was 500km though – that’s some serious trekking you’ve got planned right there.
Good luck in advance! 🙂
Cool pics and travel experience.
Oh now I have yet another hike to add to my list. It looks and sounds like a beautiful walk! I’m looking forward to hearing about it.
Sherry, these pictures makes us all the more excited for our adventure together next year. We feel exactly the same about you and cannot wait to spend a few quiet weeks together exploring this beautiful location.
We’re planning our 2013 around this adventure already.
Wow, this is amazing! I would love to do this one day! But that is some serious hiking! Excited to see your posts about this awesome adventure next year.
It was a good idea to take test run to see what you were going yourself into! LOL Now that you know, hopefully, you will pick a cooler month to tackle the hike!
That was an amazing picture of the abandoned church! Do you know how old that abandoned church is?
Sally Stretton
Just came across this post as I was doing some last minute research… we are planning to start the Lycian Way on Monday and hope to complete the whole trail! I guess it’s not surprising that the same people that are drawn to the Camino are drawn to trails like this, huh?
Ohhhh – I would love to know how it goes for you! Are you planning on doing the whole hike? How long do you expect it to take. I will be doing it a year from now – so I’ve done very little research so far – but would love to get any of your feedback afterwards! Good luck!
The plan is to do the whole hike – right from Fethiye to Antalya. We’re aiming for 26 days, which puts the daily average just shy of 20 km. But, as with everything else we do, we’re going to see how it goes once we start… we’ll have a lot more info once we’re done 🙂
Excellent! You guys should also check out my blog on the Lycian Way. It’s a solo adventure at omaristmanifest.blogspot.com