Waking up in Istanbul

New Mosque in Istanbul at sunrise

The New Mosque in Istanbul is occupied by pigeons in the early morning.

One of the best times to really see a city is the wee morning hours as the sun wakes up the homes, hills, and waterways with it’s golden glow. Commuters in Istanbul slowly move through their familiar paces and make their way to offices, mosques, stores, and stalls.

I woke up early and wandered aimlessly around the ferry docks watching commuters pour off of boats and through the back streets of the Spice Market. In the early morning hours, it looks quite different – it’s softer. Men drink tea and have their morning breakfast reading the paper and socializing with their friends and workmates. People smile at me, but don’t say a word. Trucks clamor through the narrow streets delivering inventory before the groups of tourists show up to deplete the inventory once again.

This is the Sultanahmet area – the major tourist meca of Istanbul before it’s touristy veneer is put on. As I walked through the Spice Market before it was opened most merchants ignored me, something that would never happen a mere hour later in the day. Yet as I neared the end of one of the corridors, it started, “Lady, you want some spice? Come look, come look.” I felt like Cinderella listening to the 9th bell toll at midnight, my magic morning Istanbul was disappearing in 3 more rings. But until then, I would enjoy every last moment of this insider morning experience.

2 men unload a fruit truck

Two men unload a fruit truck

sunrise over the Bosphorus

Sunrise over the Bosphorus before the ferries make it a super highway

Man cleaning the stairs of the new mosque

A man hoses off the stairs of the new mosque while pigeons look forward to dirtying it again

The tram runs down an empty street

The tram runs through the heart of Sultanahmet, but in the mornings the streets are empty

man shining shoes on the corner

A man shines shoes on the corner before the crowds

An empty alley

An quiet alleyway – before the storm of shoppers

man organizing his mushroom display stops for a tea break

A man organizing his mushroom display pauses for a tea break

cinnamon at the spice market

Soft early sunshine lights up the spices in the market

men drinking tea

Men take breaks and drink tea and chat with friends before opening stalls

man hanging disco balls

A man hangs up disco balls outside his shop

two men at the entrance of the spice market

Two young men read their paper at the entrance to the spice market

taxi drivers socialize

Taxi drivers socialize waiting for customers to get off the ferry

man replenishes inventory in the spice market

A man replenishes the turkish delight inventory in the spice market

 

View the all photography of waking up in Istanbul:

My stay in Istanbul is sponsored by Wimdu.

Your Comments

22 Comments so far

  1. What a cool scene your pictures create! Feels like the calm before the storm.

    • Sherry says:

      Great way to describe it Ryan! I will have to go back and take pictures in the afternoon and then contrast them with these – it’s totally different!

  2. Linda says:

    I am a HUGE fan of early mornings, for all the reasons you name and more, so these photos really, really resonate with me. I also love them because they are photographs of “ordinary” life, only a couple look “glamorous,” but the rest are fascinating in a totally different way.

  3. Sarah says:

    These are beautiful, and I’m struck again at how you manage to capture the emotion of a place with your images. I’m sure you’ve answered this question countless times, but how do you get these folks to stand still and smile for you? I’m such a shy (and amateur) photographer, that I can’t even imagine asking them!

    • Sherry says:

      It’s all about slowing down and taking your time observing them and smiling. A smile will really get you far. You have to just stand and watch them for a while, watch them work – be truly interested in what they are doing and inquire about what they are doing if you can – even if it is through charades. Then after you’ve established a report with them on some level then you ask them if you can take their photo. It’s funny – I don’t even think about the process I do any longer – but I do have a strategy behind it. All of these people photos in this post where they are looking at me – I hung around them for a little while before I asked them if I could take their photo and then they looked directly into the camera and that is the shot you want.

  4. Laura says:

    I’m struck by the complete absence of women in the markets. Were there any women keeping shops? I thought Turkey was a little more progressive than most Islamic countries. Did you feel uncomfortable? I realize you’ve been to the Middle East so you aren’t a stranger to being the center of attention as a woman traveling alone.

    • Sherry says:

      Even in Turkey there are very few roles for women it appears – at least in the area I was in around the Spice Market. I rarely see any women working in restaurants, shops and certainly none working in little market stalls. If I look out the window of my apartment I mainly see men roaming around – and then the random tourists. However I don’t want to paint a picture that it’s like the rest of the MIddle East becuase it’s far from that. But the fact is that it’s still less women than men out in public jobs and roles from what I can tell. And once outside of Istanbul – that becomes even more evident. Tour operators, owners, shops, restaurants, tea houses – are all men. I don’t get stared at as much here as in other middle eastern countries – but the men are quite forward.

  5. Wonderful pictures of the people preparing for the day. What a great time to be out and about.

  6. Laura says:

    I’m actually surprised by this because I thought Turkey was more European than Middle Eastern.

  7. I am a HUGE fan of those wee hours in the morning. But I also go to bed at 10pm so waking for 6am is quite nice! Mornings are always best for meeting the locals going about their business! Great photos of real life in Istanbul!

  8. Emilia says:

    It really pays to wake up early. I still remember the break of day in Angkor Wat…and last week, as we rode in bikes through a sleepy Siracusa, the central piazza being cleaned and the street market having its first customers. The light is gorgeous…
    By the way, these wonderful pics of yours made me miss Istanbul even more. Always a joy to read your posts, Sherry. Kiss!

  9. Lynelle says:

    Love the images, beautifully taken. Clean streets is the first thing I notice. Thanks for sharing

  10. Anis says:

    You take beautiful photos! Now you’ve made me want to go back to Istanbul :)

  11. Early morning is a great time to see a city. Both PAris and Venice, overcrowded with people, are best seen early in the morning.
    The early morning light also makes it an ideal time for great photos like these.

  12. Mark H says:

    It has a completely different mood to the bustling metropolis that I picture when people say “Istanbul”.

  13. Marty says:

    I had never seen that much beautiful photos of Istanbul. You are really awesome. Maybe one day we can make a deal and we use you photos on wizardistanbul Also you can find everything about Istanbul on our web-site.

  14. That is exactly how I like to experience each country that I travel to. Really experiencing and seeing the area early in the morning. I love seeing how the locals start the day, and seeing the village or city wake up. Istanbal looks amazing and only hope to visit soon!

  15. Hapter says:

    What a great read! You really captured the essence of life in Istanbul. It reminded me of my holiday trip in Istanbul where I stayed in Fraser Place Anthill Istanbul, a lovely serviced apartment. Waking up early certainly is a great way to see the city. I also like the night time in Istanbul. Bustling nightlife, spectecular city night views. From my apartment, I even get to enjoy sweeping views over the Bosphorus, Blue Mosque and historic Old Town. Your photos really made me want to be back in Istanbul again..

  16. Geek Goddess says:

    I was just there in October, and loved wandering down the side streets, stopping for tea at little shops, and window shopping. I did see one woman working, at a small restaurant very near the Blue Mosque. Other than that, no women working anywhere, even in places that catered to women, such as the shops that sold nothing but headscarves.

  17. Bessie says:

    You captured some really beautiful moments here, Sherry!

  18. suleyman says:

    güzel fotoğraflar (nice photo) congrulations(tebrikler)


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