Featured, Lebanon

Culture Up in Smoke

13 Comments 15 March 2011

Smoking shisha

A cultural pastime...

“Put, Put, Puuuut, Putttttt, Puttttt, Purrrrrttttttt….”The slurping, whirring, bubble noise broke through the background lounge music startling me. Next came the sweet smell of apple wafting through the air, hanging there enveloping the entire area in a haze. This same scene went on ever night in ever corner of Lebanon. Lebanon was always smoking; smoking the big, beautiful, aromic, fashionable nargile. If you want to fit in while in Lebanon, then you must learn how to smoke the hookah pipe.

Egyptians call it Shisha, Lebanese refer to it as Nargile, in English, it is Hookah; however I prefer the name Hubbly Bubbly. But they all can agree that it’s really called a form of relaxation. The word actually comes from the Persian word for glass. This ancient glass water pipe has been used for centuries in the Middle East to smoke away the day’s stress, while relaxing with friends and family. Flavors can include apple, cinnamon, mint, cappuccino, strawberry and any other number of fruits which actually make it a pleasant experience to be around; even if you don’t smoke it!

I became fascinated with the culture around the Hookah pipe in Lebanon. I had been exposed to hubbly bubbly when I traveled through Egypt, however it seemed that the Lebanese took it to a whole new level. Every bit of their social culture centered around nargile and as I spent more time there I started to really notice the whole industry behind the social relaxation pastime.

shisha smoking

A man in the Tripoli souks relaxes on the sidewalk smoking with friends

Shisha Pipes

Shisha pipes and hoses

At a typical bar/lounge/coffee shop in Lebanon you will not only find waiters, cooks, and doormen, but you’ll also find numerous people simply employed to manage the nargile consumption. There’s the man who keeps preparing coals out back – a dirty, hot job no doubt. Then there’s the nargile ‘waiter’ – his sole responsibility is to bring the pipe, get it loaded with the correct flavored tobacco, and then get it started for you. He carries his own little tip that goes in the end of the pipe that touches your lips. He gets the pipe started, and then you use your own tip for sanitary reasons. In fact – if a whole table has nargile, then everyone has their own tip that they quickly put in and utilize while they smoke.

Next there’s the coal ‘waiter’ He’s the man that carries a metal basket (normally ornately decorated with a little hand guard so that his fingers won’t be burned by the heat of the coals), with matching tongs. He carefully takes off your old coals and gingerly but precisely places 3 new coals on top of the pipe to keep the nargile burning at the correct temperature. This swapping of coals happens literally about every 10 minutes.

Coal for Shisha

A waiter replenishes his coal carrier

shisha coal carrier

The ornate coal carriers with finger guards

For the excessive amount of attention these hubbly bubbly waiters pay to you, they also get tipped separately. The pipe and smoking itself is actually rather cheap. Overall I was amazed at the attention paid to the pipes and the complete process in bars all over Lebanon. The pipes employ a whole separate staff of people that we don’t really have in America; and that’s why it stood out to me.

In addition, the water pipe culture has necessitated a whole retail culture too. You don’t have to go far in Lebanon to find massive hubbly bubbly stores where you can buy pipes, tobacco, tips, hoses, coal containers, and tongs. They range from super high end to basic and generic.

furry shisha pipe

A little furry flair...

shisha pipes

All colors, sizes and designs...

Most families have a hooka pipe in their home, but if you don’t there’s no need to worry as you can simply have a pipe with tobacco delivered to your door! Then they’ll come pick it up the next day.

Like most fun social pastimes it comes with a price, smoking shisha once is equal to smoking 30 cigarettes. Basically according to a BBC report on the subject one session of smoking shisha resulted in carbon monoxide levels at least four to five times higher than the amount produced by one cigarette. In addition to the health effects, I also noticed that even though it is a social pastime, it’s not very social. By getting a pipe and having it placed by your table – it doesn’t really encourage mingling and meeting other people by walking around. Instead – you are tethered to the pipe at your table. Even more strange I saw a number of people just sitting smoking while texting on their cell phone in a bar; which all seemed rather silly to me.

After 2 months in the Middle East being surrounded by it, I actually never tried it , instead I enjoyed the atmosphere, industry, and culture around it. Plus – the smell wasn’t too bad either!

To learn more about the Shisha culture – I enjoyed this article about the shisha history and cultural pastime in the Middle East.

Your Comments

13 Comments so far

  1. Donna Hull says:

    A fascinating look at an element of culture in Lebanon. What about lung cancer statistics? It seems to me that there would be a very high rate of it considering the importance placed on the hubbly bubbly.

    • Sherry says:

      Good question Donna – I’m not sure about the cancer stats – but I can tell you that no one seemed particularly worried about it – plus – most people there smoke cigarettes anyway!

  2. Although I don’t think I’d try it, I always enjoy learning about different cultural pastimes.

    I wonder about lung cancer too.

  3. Mark H says:

    I smoked one of these in a bazaar (or is that bizarre) in Cairo. While it isn’t for me I do appreciate the peaceful, chatty social environment – maybe a little similar to a wine bar or cafe here in Australia.

    • Ed says:

      As a Lebanese, i can say that smoking the shisha is a great past time. The Carbon from the shisha is mostly the result of the wood charcoal. In lebanon a special kind of shisha charcoal is made from coconut, 100% natural. This charcoal is called coconara. It is now available in Australia as i came across it on the web the other day. WEll all i can say is this , atleast smoking the shisha is a bit less harmful now :)
      their website is

  4. tripgirl6 says:

    Seems like a lot of work just for a smoke… =) but you do have to appreciate their culture and hygienic practice. This seems like a tradition passed on from dads to sons.

  5. Good to see that they have a place and past time that bring people together. I dont smoke so I dont this it would be something I would really care to be around

  6. sahil jham says:

    please dont smoke shisha or hokha this cause you a slow painfull death ok if you have to smoke than stop breating.

  7. Emcat says:

    This reminds me of my first hookah experience at money’s mediterranean
    I was little and I didn’t think much of it. My mom at the time hadn’t herd of it either. She and her friend thought the sign said “hooker bar”. I remember the dude explaining how the hookah worked to my mom. It was out side at night. The hookah was on the table and there was just one guy smoking it at the table. I remember the really sweet smell and the bubbles. My mom and I were a couple tables down from the guy. I don’t think they do hookahs anymore because of the NC restaurant smoking ban. Really cool.

  8. Nima H. says:

    Thanks for a great post. Smoking hookah is part of every day living in Middle East. You referenced the BBC report on health issues associated with hookah. Hookah is not safe, what most of those reports fail to mention is the fact that the hookah tobacco is washed quite a bit, a hookah smoker doesnt typically inhale the smoke, and shisha doesnt have all the additive chemicals as cigarettes does.

    Great article again. Will be sharing it with our readers. :)

    • Chris says:

      I would just like to point out that the study published points to carbon monoxide as the danger link between cigarettes and hookah. It doesn’t have anything to do with the tars and other harmful things that cigarettes have in them. Hookah may be harmful to your health, but no study I have seen shows any direct linkage of hookah and cancer, especially on the levels of cigarette smokers.

  9. Arturas says:

    It so sad to see when everywhere around internet people referring to those “bbc” and other articles about hookah=100 cigarettes. Which has not been proved at all…

  10. Ali Anka says:

    Nice to see my self on the cover pic
    It was a nice shot …ive lost a lot of weight since then :p
    Hookah is a daily thing and its not only a lebanese or middle eastren now you can find it all over the world.
    There is no doubt it is harmful but i take it as a nice thing to do while spending time with friends .
    Although you can find it ay every home and some people smoke hokaah twice or more daily but with no friends around you and a nice place to spent time in its not that good.
    Hope you visit lebanon more ..

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Sherry traveling the world

I'm Sherry, a corporate cube dweller turned nomadic traveler. I travel to off-the-beaten-path destinations to bring you unique travel experiences and photography. But it's not just about travel, it's also about life experiences of a middle age wanderer.
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