Me on safari

I can’t believe I’ve been here in Africa for a month and a half! I’ve never been anywhere that long on a vacation – it has been wonderful – and bits of it has seeped into me for life. I loved Africa and I will miss it! There are still places that I didn’t get to that I would have liked to go – but we’ll save that for another time (when I come back and try to climb Kilimanjaro again…ugh).

I really enjoyed Eastern Africa (Kenya and Tanzania). As happy as I was to get to South Africa and ‘normal’ life again – I found that after a week – I missed Eastern Africa. There was so much to see there and digest. The kids were soooo excited to see you there – I miss that wonder and excitement in their faces when they say you! I loved saying ‘Jambo’(Hello) to everyone – it’s such a happy word – you really can’t be in a bad mood and say ‘Jambo’. I found that I felt very safe there – mainly because everyone was excited to see you – you were an anomaly.

South Africa had a whole different feel – the country itself was beautiful without a doubt – but the security concerns were always a hinderance. I guess there is a price to being a more advanced country…crime. You weren’t an anomaly here – you were just normal. However – you gotta love a country that you can have a dozen and a half oysters delivered fresh to your door – shucked – for a matter of $12 US dollars. Yup – that’s right – in Knysna we had oysters delivered – I was so tickled to see a delivery man again!!! The food and drink in Africa was CHEAP! The rest of the costs seemed normal – but I could get a glass of wine for $1.50 US – and it was good wine! A meal at a nice restaurant cost approximately $12 US.

The commerce here was interesting. There were many men in Cape Town walking down the street selling Super Glue…yup – you read that right – Super Glue. Who knew there was such a big market on it and I have NO idea what they were using it for….pottery disasters…I don’t think so! Also – at every major intersection in Africa there were people selling things…newspapers, bead art, paintings, flowers, strawberries, and puppies…yes puppies. I entertained myself by wondering how these guys decided what they were going to sell each day. Do they play rock/paper/scissors to decide who gets to choose their commodity first. If so – then I think that the person that won chose Newspapers and the loser got the puppy sales…as who is really going to buy a puppy off the street while at a red light??? However – the fact that they are out there means that they make some sales!

Yesterday I went out shopping…oh….my body was tingling with excitement – I hadn’t been shopping forever! I realized that after a month + of traveling that I needed some different things…a sweater for one – as it’s colder than I expected. I also needed a handbag…yup – that’s right – I needed to buy a purse. All of you people at Coach stop laughing. I realized that I looked like too much of a target tourist carrying my backpack and money belt everywhere – I felt like a dork. So I invested in a very cheap big purse that can make me feel more sophisticated…first non-Coach item I’ve bought in 3 years. As I was shopping with my money belt and backpack – I was quite embarrassed to even go in some of these stores – but I managed. I just wanted to tell them when I entered their store that I normally don’t look like this…normally I can be quite fashionable…I live in NYC after all. However all I could muster up when I entered a store was ‘Hello – I’m just looking’.

Living on the road so far has been good. I’m not sick of my suitcase yet…but I can’t say that it’s really fun living out of a suitcase. I miss my closet – and my shoes most days – but I get by! The first hostel I stayed at in Cape Town spoiled me – it really was great – clean, the people were amazing and I met so many travelers! I hope I can find other gems like that!

They have World Cup Fever here…it is supposed to be in South Africa in 2010. Gail – tell your parents I”m coming to stay with them again then!

Overall – Africa has been wonderful – I really will miss it – and the meat! But most of all – I will miss the people. The people were so amazing that I met along the way – starting with Mungai’s family, Douglas my Kili guide, Natie and Blume, Clare/Keith/Jacqui, the people at the hostel, Sam the Baz Bus driver, the guys at MEM – all of them made this time here memorable. I can’t wait to come back again someday. Hopefully I’ve convinced a few of you to make this trip to Africa too! It’s long – but worth it. You really need to see this country…it’s full of hope, kindness, and beauty.

For all of you that joined me on this leg – THANKS!!!!! I had a great time!

Hello Africa!!!! and goodbye…

Pink Sunset in Mossel Bay

No zucchini or corn – but lots of rain on this Garden Route. I decided I should explore life outside of Cape Town so I made plans to take the Baz Bus across the Garden Route. I probably need to define a few thing from that last sentence. The Baz Bus is a ‘backpacker bus’ transporting backpackers (like me) around to popular destinations picking you up and dropping you off at various hostels. It was cheaper than renting a car so I figured I would try it out! The Garden Route is a section of coastline on the Western Cape know for it’s spectacular landscape, towns, beaches, and weather (I’m really not sure about that last one…read on). For you San Franciscans reading this – think Carmel/Big Sur – but much larger area and supposedly nicer weather. Since I’ve been here – I find that I’ve picked up a bit of a British/S. African accent…therefore – I’m not really sure if it’s Garden Rowt or Garden Root anymore…

View  snapshots of Mossel Bay

View South Africa photography

I chose 2 towns to stop and stay at – Mossel Bay and Knysna (pronounced Nyzna). I chose Mossel Bay because my friend Gail’s parent lived there ans she insisted that I pop in and meet them. I used to do work with Gail in NYC she provided me with many top quality consultants from Celerity (love the shameless plug!). She grew up in South Africa so I had asked her for travel advice before I left. She gave me her parents phone number and said.”Call them – they are expecting you”. So – this was my first opportunity to dust off those skills I picked up when moving to a San Francisco and New York City – calling complete strangers and seeing if they will be your friend. Little did I know that it would be a piece of cake – and I’m once again reminded on how rewarding it is to reach out to strangers.

I boarded the Baz Bus – it picked up other backpackers along the way and was generally a great ride. The country side that we saw was really beautiful…fruit farms, wheat fields, sheep – just stunning. About halfway there our driver, Simon, put in a movie for our viewing pleasure…I was so excited as I haven’t seen any TV/movie since the plane ride out here! The movie was really one of the worst movies I’ve ever seen…Soccer Dog. It was so bad – I had to watch it – like a car accident.

I arrived in Mossel Bay and put my bag in my backpacker hostel. I hadn’t been able to call Gail’s parents yet as I was having issues with my phone. So I took a walk around the Point scouting out areas to run and then found a pay phone and figured out how to use it (yes – this seems simple – but sometimes it’s not!). I called Blume and Natie not really knowing what I was going to say – but was hoping that they would meet me for dinner at the least. Blume answered and immediately asked me where I was…”ummm – a pay phone outside of a material shop” – her : “I’m coming to pick you up – you can stay with us” – me: “But I’ve already checked into the hostel” – her: “Have you paid them – if not – just tell them that I insisted that you stay with us”. Sure enough – 5 minutes later she pulls up and gives me a big hug, takes me to my hostel in which I try to explain that I have been hijacked and I must stay with my friends. They were totally cool about it – so off I went to stay with Blume and Natie. They had a wonderful place on the water overlooking the wharf and yatch club – I was in heaven! They fed me and drove me around town showing me the sites. The company they provided was out of this world – it was one of those times again where I thought – how did I get so lucky to meet these wonderful people? To top it off – they totally reminded me of my parents. They were roughly the same age and were quickly approaching their 50th wedding anniversary next year! Many of you reading this know my parents…this was my parents in South Africa…fun, outgoing and just plain nice. I felt like a queen staying there compared to the hostel.

Photo: Blume and Natie on their balcony

Natie would entertain me non-stop with stories. He was a sailor (sailed from Mossel Bay to the Caribbean), an architect, and I even came to find out that he was the Mayor of Mossel Bay a few years back. For me – he was my TV…I was thoroughly entertained by him – great reality TV! It really made me miss my parents. The next morning Blume invited me to join her at her water aerobics class at the heated pool in Mossel Bay. Since I hadn’t exercised in a month and I love to joining the ‘locals’ – I figured what the heck. Oh my goodness – this was probably one of my favorite moments during my trip so far – going to water aerobics in Mossel Bay. Never in my wildest dreams could I have predicted that I would be with Gail’s mom doing Aquasize along with a bunch of other women and men more than a few years my senior. I was the only one in a bikini (it was all I had!!). As I was following the instructor and sweating from the hot, hot pool (it honestly was like a jacuzzi) – I just had to grin with pleasure. One of those grins that make your face hurt. I was so happy.

That day I also accompanied Blume to the store and more site seeing. Then I walked around and went to the museum on my own. That night I went with Blume and Natie to the Yacht Club for dinner where they had a raffle and I found out that Natie had been one of the main and had his own parking space with his name on it! So – we walked in and got a Cheers-like reception – everyone knew him and Blume of course. However they had no idea who I was! I didn’t win anything at the raffle…darn…but I did meet a lot of great people. We went for ice cream after dinner and drove out to the Point to listen to the waves and eat our dessert…a perfect day.

The next day I got up and ran 5 miles…well – run/walk…it was excruciating after a month. I was actually sad to leave Natie and Blume that afternoon as I had so much fun with them. Blume took me back to the hostel to pick up the bus – but as we were going by the hostel the bus pulled away…oh noooooo…..that was my ride!!! Blume took off trying to follow them – but we lost them…imagine – car chase down the main street of Mossel Bay (I’m sure Gail will get a chuckle out of that). Since we couldn’t find the bus we went back to the hostel and the people there called the bus and they had to come back to pick me up! Granted – I wouldn’t have minded staying another day…but they were most likely tired of me by that point (confirmed by the fact that Blume was going 60 down main street trying to catch the bus!) The bus came back…and I was on my way again. Saying goodbye to Blume and Natie was hard…they were out of this world! It’s people like them that make me want to travel more. Thanks Gail!!!!!

So – I get on the bus and we take off – I apologize to everyone on the bus including our driver, Sam, for being late and making the bus turn around. Everyone was cool about it – however at the next rest stop – Sam she would have to take the microphone and sing a song! For those of you that know me – you know that I DON’T sing – never even hummed in karaoke. So I nervously told him ‘no way’! So instead he made me get up and tell everyone my name, where I was from, what my hobbies were, and what my favorite part of my trip had been…hilarious! I can’t sing – but I can talk – so this request was no problem! Sam continued to give me crap the whole way to Knysna. He dedicated a song to me at one point – the only lyrics I remember was “Watch the red tail lights disappear in the night”…it was really an entertaining ride! In fact – it was one of those times…those really special times where you realize just what happiness is. Sam put on some traditional African music with an intro by Nelson Mandella and all of a sudden I looked out the window at my surroundings and had this rush of happiness come over me. I was so happy that my eyes welled up, my face got stiff and tingly (like when you are about to cry about something good), and I smiled so hard it actually hurt. The beauty of the countryside, the incredible people I met, the unpredictable things I am doing – I felt so lucky and blessed to be exposed to this. I cannot really put this feeling into words. It’s better than drugs (not that I would know of course!), and it’s a feeling that I know will come to me a lot this year. It’s happiness.

View pictures of Kynsna, South Africa

Photo: Knysna Eastern Head – in the rain of course!

I arrived in Knysna that evening – and it had been raining and foggy the whole way – the weather gods were not with me. I had arranged to stay in a guest house in Knysna as I had tired of the hostels and wanted a bit more pampering. I found a great place online so I reserved with them. Clare from the guesthouse called Cair Paravel came to pick me up from where the bus dropped me and take me to the house. I honestly didn’t know what a guest house was as I that I don’t know. Plus – their house was not in town – and I didn’t have a car – so I wasn’t really sure how I was going to eat and get around. Clare said that they were doing a brai (remember – if you were paying attention a few posts ago you would know that brai means BBQ) and we stopped at the grocery store on the way out of town and I picked up a steak. I found out that Clare had been living in Knysna for about 6 years running various hostels and her parents, Keith and Jacqui, had decided to retire here from London. They had built this house and it was just finished and they had just arrived today also to stay there for the next month or so – they were semi-retired. So – now I was a bit self conscious as I was staying with a family that I didn’t know – the good mid-westerner in me didn’t want to intrude…but hell – I had no choice! So – that night Clare got a piping hot BBQ going (this woman knows her grill!) – she cooked the steaks, we opened up wine and we all sat on the porch and had dinner together. It was like I was visiting with old friends – it was so much fun. Wine and beef…a great way to bond (sorry to you vegetarians out there!). It was as if I was going to one of my friend’s parents houses for a few days – I felt totally comfortable and they were so social. Even though it rained most of the time I was there – Clare still arranged various activities for me and would take me into town. Then she would cook up these amazing meals that we would all have together. I came to really look forward to dinner time for the food and the company. The next night we had shrimp on the brai and the last night we had tuna…she was a great cook and they were great company! Once again – I learned a lot about London, and South Africa. Keith worked in the tobacco manufacturing industry so he was well traveled – so we had tons to talk about.

While in Knysna in the rain I did some great activities…and I visited many Internet cafes! One day I went on a tour called the Awesome Foursome – (no – this is not sexual…all of my friends in NYC…get your mind out of the gutter…hee…hee). Since the weather was horrendous – I was the only one who was crazy enough to book this – so I was the only one on the tour…just me and my guide Ricky. We canoed across the lagoon to the Western Head. Knysna is known for it’s stunning lagoon. There are two mountain ranges that practically meet – but there is about a 100 meter opening that let’s the ocean water in to form this amazing lagoon. The two mountains are called the Eastern Head and the Western Head by the locals (I’m sure they have much more official names). All I really wanted to do was canoe and hike – however it was a package deal – so I had to do the other two activities… Quad biking and abseiling. So – Ricky and I canoed and then hiked up to the top of the Head where he taught me how to use my Quad Bike (think 4 wheeler).

I am not a big motorcycle person – hell – I’m not a big car person – so this quad biking thing seemed a bit scary to me. He showed me how to use it and gave me a helmet. I warned him that I hadn’t drove in years in NYC – but he didn’t seem worried. I was very surprised to find out that the white trash side of me emerged and I LOVED this activity! It was so fun to go fast and practically tip over…it was like riding a snow mobile but in the dirt! I was laughing the whole time under my helmet and seriously considering growing a mullet. Next was the abseiling (basically repelling down a cliff). I thought that this wouldn’t be a problem – until I saw the cliff. I was all of a sudden terrified. Ricky made me go look over the edge – it was a 70 meter drop with the ocean and rocks below. It sounded like someone had turned the volume up on the waves as all I could hear was them crashing into the rocks. I freaked out and told Ricky that I didn’t think I could do it. I went and sat down for a bit and considered it. I told myself that I was here and had paid for it – why not do it. I told myself that tons of people do this all of the time and they are fine. I told myself that I had jumped out of a plane…why would this bother me. That finally did it…I told him I would go through with it. He set it all up and I asked him about 10 times if everything was secure. When he told me to step over the edge my legs were like rubber – I was completely scared. There’s nothing like laying back off a cliff that drops to the ocean – you have to totally trust the ropes and let them hold you – but I was scared stiff. I did it – but I must admit – I was soooo happy to be on the ground. I much prefer jumping out of a plane to abseiling…but I did it!! Ricky and I hiked back to the canoe and talked about reality TV…one of my favorite subjects. They have Survivor here – so we bonded over that. I told him to keep an eye out for Project Runway!

Photo: Me abseiling…you can’t see the fear on my face – but it was there!

The last day in Knysna I really wanted to go hiking – however – being a single traveler has posed some problems. No one wants to do a tour with a single traveler as it really doesn’t make them money. But Clare worked very hard at finding me a guide that would be willing to take me out on a short hike. I met Mark in his open top Land rover the next morning. He was a real likable guy with a great S. African accent. Once I determined he was married – my fantasies of living my life out in S. Africa hiking through the mountains with him disappeared – but regardless – we had a great time. We did a 4 km hike down to a beach and back up – it was tough – but good. We talked non-stop about politics, various countries, astrological signs, dating in NYC ,sex clubs, and relationships…this was my kind of guy – no subject was off limits!! He really was great – very granola – if he lived in the US he would belong in California for sure. He showed me different plants, educated me about trees, you name it. It rained on us when we got to the beach – we were soaked – but then again that was the pattern in Knysna! He took me back to the guest house and from there I caught another Baz Bus back to Cape Town.

Photo: Keith, Clare, and Jacqui from my Guest House

My adventure down the Garden Route had been a success. I was overwhelmed with the great people I met and their hospitality was remarkable. I felt like a part of the family everywhere I went! Most importantly…I experienced happiness…you must grab those moments and not let go!

Note – Once all of you other vendors that I worked with out there in NYC get me a place to stay with great food and company…I’ll give you your plug!!

 View Photography of South Africa 

I had an amazing day today – the kind of day I love – full of spontaneity. I woke up with no plans, I laid in bed wondering what I was going to do. I decided to tackle breakfast and then figure it out. I went to the main area in the hostel to get my yogurt and muesli. When I got there on of my new friends, Sara from Toronto, was leaving me a note saying that her and 4 other people were going on a wine tour today and I should join them. Hmmm – booze chat at 8 AM – I liked the thought! I had no plans so I figured what the hell – let me change clothes, grab a Muffin, and off I went. I had no idea how much the tour was, where it went, how long it was – I just knew there was wine involved! Like holding a carrot in front of a rabbit – of course I would go!

On the way to Stellenbosch I got to know the other people on the trip – James and Naomi (Newlyweds from Brighton), Barbara from Philadelphia (incidentally the first and only American I met here in S. Africa), Rachel from Brighton, and Sara of course. Sara was quite an inspiration to me as she had been traveling around the world for 10 months, 40 yrs old, and full of personality and strong independence. I felt like I was back in high school – I was a freshman and she was a senior – I looked up to her and wanted to figure out how I could acquire her ease in this next year of traveling.

NOTE – for your wine snobs…I’ve actually listed out the places I went…go try to find some of these in the US…the wine was excellent and I listed my favorites!!! Plus – it is cheap!!!

Photo: Stellenbosch Wine Country

Our first stop was at Villiera – we were drinking champagne by 10 AM – lordy this was going to be a long day! Villiera’s Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and Shiraz were great, the the Monro (Merlot/cab blend) and their Port called Fired Earth were fabulous! These were large pours too – it was really going to be a long day!

Next we went to Beyerskloof winery. South Africa wineries are known for their Pinotage and this was our first taste. The 2005 Pinotage and the Pinotage Reserve were scrumptious! They even gave us Pinotage frozen yogurt. So now I’ve had about 8 tastings of wine and frozen yogurt before noon. This is the time that I start reflecting on how lucky I am. I feel blessed…err…a bit wasted…er…pissed (as my English friends would say). We drive through the town of Stellenbasch – it’s charming. I then realize – Napa and Sonoma could only wish they were this beautiful. The countryside here was stunning. Big mountains protecting these tasty grapes. Green as far as the eye could see.

We next went to Tokara Winery. This estate was beautifully decorated with a killer view. There I had the Tokara White, Stellenbosch Chardonnay, Tokara Red and the Zondernaam Cabernet – loved them all. Hell – I loved everything by this point. My lone muffin could not soak up all of this wine – I needed lunch! We got to lunch and have yet another glass of wine poured for us at the table. After lunch we went to a chocolate store and then stopped to pick up fresh strawberries…so sweet tasting – that first taste of summer – delicious!

Our last stop was at Fairview winery and cheese shop. We tried their varieties which include their playful label “Goats do Roam” – all was great – but I needed to sober up on the way back to Cape Town! Thank God that we had a driver!

Photo: View a top Table Mountain

On our ride back to CT a group of us decided we would go up to Table Mountain and see the sunset as it was a clear day. We all 5 piled into a cab like sardines and took the cable car to the top. When we got off at the top we not only were we greeted by amazing views of the city – but also by hurricane force winds and blizzard like cold! Ok – maybe a bit exaggerating – but it did feel like the climate had changed to Siberia – not summer in Cape Town. Table Mountain is approximately 3000 feet high. We loved the views but took shelter in the cafe and had hot chocolate. As we came down the mountain after we braved more cold photographs I made dinner plans with Bobbie the American from Philly. She was traveling alone and had been on the wine tour – so we bonded over the East coast and wine. The day turned out to be so much fun and so unpredictable. These are the days an Aquarian like me lives for – new places, new people, unplanned adventure and to think – I laid in my bed that morning wondering what I was going to do all day on my own!

Photo: Cold weather up there!!!

View from Table Mountain

View snapshots of Cape Town, South Africa

View South Africa Photography

It’s been a month already – I can hardly believe how fast it’s gone. Yet I haven’t been working for more than a month now. There have been so many emotions coursing through me – some good – some disturbing. I’m trying to teach myself this new way of life – this carefree way – but it certainly has hurdles. The hurdles of years and years of working away at the American dream…money, title, security. I have none of those things now – I gave them up – and it’s quite a lot to deal with some days. These hurdles lead to me freaking out every so often – I no longer have a job – very strange. Granted – no one I’ve met is shocked that I’m jobless – it’s just the social pressure that I’m putting on myself. It feels weird to just be spending money and not have any coming in. I feel lazy and guilty some days – like I’m not using my brain. Yet – if I really think about it – I am using my brain every day – in fact it’s in overload taking in new things, new thoughts, new experiences. But it’s no longer running meetings, or making business decisions. Heck – my hardest decision I make each day is to decide what to eat and where to go (then again – back at my old job one of my big decisions of the day was what to eat – so maybe it’s no so different!). I can no longer plan every moment of my days/weeks/months. This is what I excelled at in NYC – I always had something planned – every moment. Not anymore – my brain is struggling with this new phenomena – but it’s slowly getting used to it.

For the 1st time in 14 years – I am getting 8 hours of sleep a night, not using an alarm clock, and waking up laying in bed completely wondering what I will do that day. I have no plans. This is a bit unnerving for me. I feel like I’m watching a sitcom of someone else’s life – this can’t be my life. I haven’t watched TV for at least 3 weeks, and I haven’t read any American news for a month. I find myself craving a NY Times. (Miles – stop laughing) In the 3 1/2 years I lived in NYC – I NEVER read the Times – Miles would tell me the headlines and that’s how I stayed informed. However – now whenever I go into a book store – I find myself scouring the shelves for one…anything…even a USA Today…yes – I’m desperate!

I haven’t run for a month now too…my body really has no idea what is going on…it’s starving for adrenaline! However – my running friend Vida from NYC informed me that the Coach team did really well in the Corporate Challenge Championship race. I had qualified for this race before I left but had to decline since I wouldn’t be there. However – she told me that it had my time, Sherry Ott, listed at running it in 25:06. So even though I’m halfway around the world – I guess my alter ego is still in NYC running faster than ever!!! So – whomever ran for me…thanks I guess!!

There are some skills that I’ve put to use in a big way since I’ve been traveling – sleeping through lots of loud noise is one. NYC trained me well for the hostels that I’m living in. Walls are thin and people are loud – but I sleep right through it! I’ve put my art of socializing in overdrive. I have met so many new people in simply a week – it’s a bit overwhelming.

Please take note – as you continue to read my blog – I will simply refer to these people that I meet as my ‘new friends’ from (pick a country). You won’t be able to keep up with the names and places – as I can hardly do that and I’m living it!

Some of the recent new friends have been a couple from Holland, newlyweds from Brighton, Mark and Pat from North Wales, Sara from Toronto, and a Bobbie from Philly. The list goes on and one and I’ve only been at one hostel. I must admit – I was a bit concerned about how I would do in the hostels as I’ve never stayed in one before (once again I’m experiencing things in my 30′s that I should have experienced in my 20′s – oh well – it makes me feel young!) .

So far the hostel experience has been amazing – it’s like a socializing factory of sorts. I’ve decided that shy people don’t travel – as everyone I’ve met is extremely outgoing – kind of like cheerleaders on crack – but in a good way! I’ve yet to brave ‘dorm living’ in a hostel yet – but it is in my near future. I’ve been living on my own with my cat now for 10 years – the thought of sleeping in a bunk bed and sharing bathrooms terrify me a bit. However – one of the quickest ways to becoming ‘old’ is to become set in your ways – so – in the name of youth – I will give dorm living a go! It’s all part of the adventure!

OK – now on to Capetown…sorry for that diversion – but admit it – you were getting bored with simply travel blog stuff.

Arriving in South Africa was stunning – I felt like I had been ship wrecked for a month and all of a sudden I was dropped back into modern society. The 3rd world to 1st world switch was abrupt and I felt a sense of relief to see normal roads, ATM’s, fast food places and malls – but at the same time I felt sad to be leaving the ‘simple’ life. Every day in Eastern Africa put my brain synapses in overdrive – I was redlining with thoughts on what I was seeing every day. On the other hand – the thought of a country with uninterrupted electricity was sounding pretty good to me!

I stayed at Cape Town Backpackers in the heart of Cape Town in the Tamboerskloof neighborhood. Since Cape Town has a LARGE Dutch influence – all of the names have this strange Dutch sound (Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, etc) as if the chef from the Muppets named all of the places. You remember him – he talked but made no sense. Every time I hear one of these Dutch names I say it in my head with the chef’s accent in mind.

Photo: Cape Point Coast Line

When Cyndi left me I decided that I needed to first spend some time site-seeing at the local Internet Cafe. I spent the whole afternoon there catching up on things. When I got back to the hostel I asked the staff there if I could reserve a Robben Island ticket as I had heard they had to be booked in advance. Luckily Lea (the manager) was able to get me a space in a couple of days – at that time a young guy who overhead my conversation wanted /friend, Pat, and my first ‘new friends’ were found – Mark and Pat from North Wales. It’s weird how things work out…I had been terrified all day that I would be lonely and here came along the perfect new friends! They were funny, outgoing, and liked to drink – a match made in Hostel Heaven! They asked me to join them for dinner and for the next 3 days we were joined at the hip!

 We went on a tour of Cape Point together dinner and drinks every night, Robben Island, and I taught them how to play Yahtzee. In exchange I learned great new phrases such as “I was so pissed last night!” – meaning – “I was so drunk last night”. I learned that being “tapped” or “pulled” meant that you were hit on at a bar (or wherever). I learned the difference between snogging and shagging. I learned that Wales is NOT the same country as England (yet that is all still a bit fuzzy for me) and finally I learned a bit about soccer leagues in Europe as well as the fact that a proper cricket match can last for days. The education was all jolly good fun! Pat and Mark were co-workers and had a humorous friendship – kind of like brother and sister – so I fit in just fine.

Mark was the first person I ever met that made a part time living repairing Bouncy Castles. Apparently bouncy castles are popular in Wales and they often ‘pop’ – Mark to the rescue!! However his funniest trait was that he had self diagnosed himself with a ‘shy bladder’. Not a small bladder – a shy bladder. He couldn’t pee around other people in a public bathroom. I thought he was trying to pull the gullible American along – but Pat confirmed it and he proceeded to show me the illness definition on Google (you can look it up yourself)…how absurd! As you can tell – we got along great! Bouncy Castle repair man with a shy bladder – I still chuckle thinking about it!

When we went to Cape Point we were able to see the African penguins along Boulder Beach. The penguins get the nickname Jackass penguins because they make noises like a donkey. How a cute little penguin can make such a horrible noise just seems wrong. After viewing the penguins we drive to Cape Point to go biking. However on the way our guide spotted some whales off the coast about 300 ft. away. We stopped and realized there were actually 3 whales swimming together – they were so close to us that you could hear them – the noise was much nicer than the penguins!

We proceeded to the entrance to the point and hopped on our bikes for a leisurely coast downhill – not quite the type of workout I was expecting. However the coastline once again reminded me of Northern California – Big Sur area. After lunch we hiked up to the lighthouse and then down to the Cape of Good Hope – the area where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. I expected to see some wall of water like when Moses parted the Red Sea – but it was rather uneventful! The only way to really tell that the oceans meet is by the temperature of the water. The Atlantic is still cold and the Indian Ocean is warm. That night the hostel had a big BBQ (called a brai in South Africa) – it was quite the party – even some bar top dancing – surprisingly I refrained from dancing on the bar – and left that to the bouncy castle repairman.

We visited Robben island the next day in the blustery weather with a slight hangover. We got on the ferry and I had the deja vu of going to Alcatraz island – cold ferry out to a island prison – who could blame me. They had ex-prisoners give you a tour of the old facilities – which was even more creepy. You just had to wonder what in the world would make them want to come back to this hated place and be a guide. Besides a being a prison for political prisoners during apartheid – the island served as a leper colony from 1845 to 1931, and a military base from 1939 to 1959 and then a prison was formed from 1960 to 1991. Mandella was imprisoned there from 1963 to 1982 and then taken to yet another prison before being released.

The island was dismal, the leper colony cemetery was eerie and the prison was depressing – this was my kind of tour! The cells didn’t have beds – just mats rolled out on the floor, a shared bathroom and a small yard area. The cold oozed through the floors and the mats. The whole thing just left you wondering – “How the hell could’ve this happened?” Apartheid actually means ‘living apart’. The black and colored people had no rights, were kicked out of their neighborhoods and no future. This was not more than 13 years ago – it seems impossible that this was so recent – in my lifetime.

Yet the South Africa today still has many issues. The government is new and still corrupt in less visible ways. The crime is high and i saw no police presence anywhere. Everyone forbids me from walking outside alone once the sun goes down and it drives me crazy! I feel like Princess Fiona from Shrek and have to race the sun home before I turn into mugging bait! I heeded their advice and would take taxis a matter of 6 blocks – this made my New Yorker blood boil!. I talked to once South African that said that “during apartheid they locked the blacks out, and now the whites simply lock themselves in”. Very true statement – as all affluent people live in gated, high security neighborhoods. There’s something about beautiful houses/estates surrounded by barbed wire that just seems wrong. Yet this is the norm all over Africa. Everyone hires security guards – I swear that ADT must be the biggest employer here! At times this all made me feel as if Capetown was simply masquerading as a 1st world country. 1st world by day, but reverting back at night. Maybe Giuliani should consider taking over!

Photo: At the lighthouse at Cape of Good Hope